What is it?: A long-time mainstay of the mid-range dining scene in Bangkok, highlighting some of the best and most unusual local ingredients from the North and Northeast in a cosy space in Charoen Krung.
Why we love it: ‘Nose to tail’ might be thought of as something trendy, a food fad for 2010s hipsters in Hackney or Bushwick, but in the backwater regions of Thailand, it was just how it was always done, and Chef Chalee Kader has made a career marrying those upcountry traditions with elegant, modern presentation and creative concepts. Consider some of the menu favourites: the ‘Northerner’s hot dog’, in which Chiang Mai-style sai ua sausage is presented on a brioche bun;roasted bone marrow served under a mountain of perilla seeds; or yum chee, in which cilantro, sawtooth coriander and dill (phak chi, phak chi farang, and phakchi lao in Thai, get it?) are prepared as a salad with thin slices of grilled pork heart. You’ll never think about organ meats the same way again.
Time Out tip: Head upstairs to Mahaniyom for a drink, whether as an aperitivo or a digestivo. Beverages are likewise ingredient-focused and deeply rooted in Thai terroir, with plenty of drinking snacks from downstairs if you fancy a bite.