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Review

Haoma

4 out of 5 stars
A backyard farm-slash-fine-dining experience right in the heart of Sukhumvit
  • Restaurants | Indian
  • price 3 of 4
  • Phrom Phong
  • Recommended
Arpiwach Supateerawanitt
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Time Out says

It’s been a few years since the farm-to-table food craze flourished in Bangkok. Some restaurants that jumped on this hype aged like milk and later on failed to stand the test of time, but not Haoma. 

This Indian fine-dining eatery by Chef Deepanker “DK” Khosla has aged like fine wine. The prolific chef hasn’t stopped pushing the boundaries of the culinary sphere, always utilizing innovative cooking techniques to bring back lost authentic flavors of Indian cuisine, at the same time maintaining sustainable practices by using home-grown produce from his own backyard.

Since the start of the pandemic, Chef DK and his crew have been busy with feeding low-income families and the vulnerable with their #NoOneHungry campaign. But this hasn”t stopped them from cooking up something new. Haoma is now ready to welcome back discerning diners who are aching for another taste of the Neo-Indian signature that made us fall in love with the restaurant in the first place.

Heritage, Roots, and Culture is the latest tasting menu series by Haoma. The whole series consists of three different sets—a 10-course plant-based menu (B2,990++), a 10-course meat-based menu (B2,990++), and a 7-course non-vegetarian menu (B2,390++).

We tried the new 10-course meat-based Neo-Indian set and were, unsurprisingly, very impressed. The meal took us on a journey to India, with each dish representing the culinary cultures of the subcontinent’s many regions and telling a captivating story with an environmental message. Chef DK also pairs a home-grown herb with each course to add more layers to the entire gustatory experience. 

The first course, Dishaa, comprises four unique bites inspired by snacks from different parts of India and using over 20 sorts of spices. These morsels, which include mushroom galauti kebab, rawa dhola, pomegranate puchka, and melon paniyaram, awaken the senses and better prepare you for the ensuing ride. Up next is the Mattar & Daal Kachori, a curry and bread dish disguised as a crisp topped with mashed lentils and green pea curry bubbles. We were completely speechless with how amazing it looked and tasted.

Another intriguing course is the Reappearing Duck, a dish of deep-fried chicken wrapped in a chaat masala batter and accompanied by a turmeric curry mousse shaped as a duck.

But the Marnasann Sagar was easily our hands-down favorite. Meant to address the issue of marine creatures dying in oceans polluted with oil spills and wastes, it features Phuket lobster surrounded by a black lobster bisque. Herbs and chili oil add more flavors to the dish.

#NoOneHungry is another course that gives diners more than just a palatal pleasure. This main dish is a more refined version of the actual meal that the Haoma team makes for its campaign of the same name. It consists of lamb (or chicken) biryani rice topped with a spicy Kashmir chili yogurt, and a peanut and pepper curry.

To end the meal, we were served two different desserts: Double Ka Meetha and Melody. The first one is a citrusy palate cleanser, while the latter is a semi-sweet dish of burnt milk and pistachios.

All three tasting menus also come with a biodynamic wine-pairing option for B2,990. Haoma also has a new à la carte menu, which can be found here.

Details

Address
231/3
Soi Sukhumvit 31
Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok
10110
Opening hours:
Tue-Sun 18:00-23:00
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