What is it?: A restaurant born in distant Ubon Ratchathani as a way to showcase local market products, which has now come to the big city to bring the uncompromising flavours of all points northeast – the Lao-script sign is a clue – to Ekkamai
Why we love it: Zao is a Bangkok rarity – a restaurant that pairs genuine daring with remarkably wallet-friendly prices. Sure, you’ll see all the Isan standards on the menu, but you’ll see a no-holds-barred version made with serious craft and a commitment to regional produce – phak khayaeng rice paddy herb, ma-euk hairy eggplant, and the like. Each page of the telephone book of a menu offers something hyper-local and hyper-seasonal you’ve likely never seen – just make sure it’s available that day. The pla ra has converted many a plara hater to an aficionado, with a clean, bright funkiness that bears little in common with the low-tide reek most people are more familiar with. It’s enchanting on the somtam, and even more enchanting on top of fresh watermelon.
Time Out tip: Fiery, acidic Isan food doesn’t seem like a natural fit for wine, but the cellar at Zao might convince you otherwise. There’s a heavy focus on minimal-intervention, skin-contact, and other oddball wines that can match the funk and the tartness of the cuisine.