Technically, this new-school farm-to-table restaurant in Alhambra isn’t a Chinese restaurant, at least not in the traditional sense. Anyone familiar with the Sinosphere’s culinary influences, however, will delight in the unique, nostalgia-tinged ways namesake chef Chris Yang riffs on regional Chinese staples with dishes like dan dan campanelle and Hainan-style fish over a wonderfully silky chicken fat rice. The smoked char siu paired with spicy mustard is one of my favorite preparations of pork jowl in the city. No matter how you order, you’ll find a memorable dish. The fried chicken wings, which come naked-skinned and served with a side of salt and white pepper and a lemon wedge, get at the heart of what Yang’s does best: flawlessly executed Asian-inflected comfort dishes that are far more complex than they look.
Fact: L.A. County is home to the most diverse, high-quality array of Chinese cuisine in the country. While many of the area’s best Chinese restaurants are in the San Gabriel Valley—and technically outside city limits—you’ll still find plenty of excellent, more centrally located options in Chinatown, West L.A. and Silver Lake, among other neighborhoods. In recent years, a newer generation of chefs have also expanded the definition of Chinese food, blending old family recipes with seasonal, high-quality ingredients and uniquely L.A. flourishes.
Over a year and a half, I visited over three dozen places, scouting the depths of the SGV to find the most interesting, high-quality eateries serving delicious food across the board. What I found, in short, was that L.A.’s Chinese dining scene has its strengths and weaknesses. There are plenty of Cantonese, Taiwanese, Shanghainese and Sichuan heavyweights, plus dim sum options and cross-regional specialists that wear multiple hats. But I’ve yet to find a standout Shaanxi-style restaurant on par with New York City’s Xi’an Famous Foods. (No, the Noodle Art in the Original Farmers Market does not count. Neither does the somewhat inconsistent Bang Bang Noodles in Culver City.)
There are also plenty of places where if you just order the right dish—perhaps a certain preparation of hand-pulled noodles—you’ll have a good time. But for the purposes of this guide, I’m not interested in one dish wonders or hyper-specialized joints: I’m looking for destination-worthy bangers, and I found them in spades, albeit only in certain styles and categories. There were so many, in fact, that I’ve included a few B-side options for veterans and those interested in a deeper cut Chinese dining picks.
Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll probably find something to love in my carefully researched guide to the best Chinese restaurants in L.A. My ever-evolving guide to best Chinese restaurants in Los Angeles includes everything from a farm-to-table Chinese eatery to the best no-frills, cash-only storefronts. For planning purposes, I’ve indicated with an asterisk (*) all places located within city limits—so you can find a great Chinese meal even when where you live, work and play isn’t all that close to the SGV.