Eat Joy Food

Unless you already live in the San Gabriel Valley, Rowland Heights is a long way from most of Los Angeles, but this Taiwanese restaurant is worth the trek for dainty, flavorful preparations of classic dishes like three-cup chicken, a delightfully gooey, paper-thin oyster omelette and a steamed clam custard reminiscent of Japanese chawanmushi (which requires an hour of preparation, so call in advance). When in season, order the dragon whiskers, a tender vegetable also known as chayote or long xu cai. Other dishes like the pork kidney with sesame oil and ginger will have you reconsidering your relationship to offal, especially once paired with a side of delicate angel-hair rice noodles. If you’re lost, don’t be afraid to ask the staff for recommendations—the sprawling menu is a tad difficult to navigate for first-timers.