Huge Tree Pastry

There’s no question as to what you should order here for breakfast: shao bing (baked wheat cake), you tiao (twisty cruller) and a steaming hot bowl of soy milk. The only decision you need to make is whether you’d like it salty or sweet, served milky or as a very soft curd. Our vote is for salty, which means that it also comes topped with chopped scallions and shredded dried pork (vegetarian substitute available). Wrap the cruller in the cake, dip, slurp, repeat. All around the cozy but utilitarian room, chattering Chinese families (and the occasional food-blogger) are ensconced in the same set-up, over a spread of pan-fried daikon cakes with egg, salted rice balls and green-onion pastries. Don’t forget to take a beef and pickle stuffed shao bing to go—it makes the perfect lunch. Take note: Cash only.