Yunnan Restaurant

Some of my earliest San Gabriel Valley dining memories date back to this local chain (Monterey Park, Rowland Heights, San Gabriel and Oak Park), beloved by the Chinese diaspora across Los Angeles for its tantalizing counter full of cold items, which includes chilled seaweed, smashed cucumbers, pork kidneys, pork ears, chicken feet, wood ear mushrooms and more. You can choose up to three generously portioned items per plate for  takeout or eating right on the spot, but the extensive dine-in menu begets even more culinary treasures: Yunnan-style “crossing the bridge” noodles, a mild, soul-warming meal for two that comes with a rich chicken broth and a colorful plate of assorted toppings; a surprisingly competent Sichuan dry pot beef; bouncy mung bean noodles topped with peanuts; and Chongqing (a subspeciality of Sichuan) spicy fried chicken. For those who love spice, vinegar and bold flavors, Yunnan is the rare place that truly can do it all.