Jhol burst onto Bangkok's culinary scene in 2020 with a mission – to upend your preconceptions of Indian food. Good luck finding butter chicken on the menu. While the Mughal Empire-via-Whitechapel takeout standard reigns internationally, Karnataka-born Chef Hari Nayak and his team focus on the coastal regions, from the salt marshes of Kutch in the west to the steamy mangroves of the Sundarbans in the east. It’s a region of incredible ethnic and religious diversity, with less-known dishes made from seafood and even pork and beef, complete with tongue-twisting Tamil and Malayalam names and unique spice profiles, just waiting to be discovered.
Flavours at Jhol are traditional, but presentation is as smart and contemporary as can be (something tells me it’s tough finding pomegranate granita in rural Maharashtra), matched by the warm, wood-accented interior of their space in Asok. However, as gauche as it might be to say, one thing we adore about Jhol is the price point. You can have dinner for two here without breaking the bank, with most of the dishes landing comfortably in the B500-ish range. To wit, some of our favourites have been the airy, crispy pani puri with fresh vegetables, the inji puli baby back ribs – slathered in a Keralan tamarind chutney, like an Indian reimagining of Carolina barbecue – the “BFC” (that’s Berhampur fried chicken, a tangy version from the Odisha town of the same name), and the dinosaur portion of Malabar lamb shank.
To pair, we’re big fans of the ‘monsoon negroni’, a version made with the addition of kokum, a dried spice made from a sour mangosteen relative that grows in the forests of the Western Ghat range. It’s an unexpected addition, but one that seems both classic and modern, local in origin but international in vision.
And that could be a skeleton key for the whole menu. Even if you don’t understand half (or more) of the words, that’s fine – given the regional specificity, even many Indians might find it a bit daunting. It’s an experience that’s educational, but not stuffy. The staff is informative, but really, the best teacher is the plate in front of you.
For the uninitiated, their tasting menus are consistently excellent, and 'Purification’ (B2,200), created for their fifth anniversary, is no exception. It’s got a lot of the twists we love – the choris pav showcases the Goan version of chorizo, the dim’er devil is an Anglo-Indian classic that wraps a Scotch egg in spiced minced mutton, the Coorgi pandi curry shows us how well pork belly can fit into the Indian repertoire, and the fish korma is an unctuous Bengali wedding dish that elevates the humble sea bass with crushed poppy seeds and floral essences into something befitting the refined rajahs of old Calcutta.
Granted, that’s for the moments when fine dining is the order of the day. If you just want a curry and some dosa, that’s fine too. Either way, prepare to be surprised.