Since its 2020 debut, Enrique Olvera’s Damian has become one of the best upscale Mexican restaurants in the city, as well as one of the best restaurants in Los Angeles, period. Damian’s understatedly stylish ambience and unforgettable seafood-centric small plates, grilled meats and playful vegetable mains easily put it in the same league as its always-popular parking lot neighbor, Bestia, but the restaurant defies any simple comparison. When every bite reflects Damian’s commitment to traditional Mexican cooking techniques and ingredient sourcing, there’s no one singularly great dish to order, but you’d be remiss not to order the unforgettable pollito al pastor and art-like hibiscus meringue. Groups of four or more should order the duck carnitas, a pricey but decadent dish best piled onto Damian’s amazing tortillas for maximal enjoyment.
Mexican food is probably the official cuisine of Los Angeles, with a taqueria or taco truck on seemingly every corner and freshly made agua frescas the summer drink of choice for thirsty Angelenos. What can we say? We’re blessed. But fare from south of the border runs so much deeper than tacos, with flavors and preparations that can vary depending not only by seasonality and provenance, but simply by which L.A. neighborhood we happen to be in at the moment. We tasted our way through every taco, mole, tamale and more to round up L.A.’s best sit-down Mexican restaurants, from old-school traditional to modern and back again.
Editor’s note: This latest update includes new information and photography for El Compadre and Ceviche Project, as well as the additon of Komal, the newest tenant within South L.A.’s Mercado La Paloma.