Those who appreciate the nuances of Oaxacan cuisine already know and love Sabores Oaxaqueños. The Koreatown restaurant operates in the original Guelaguetza space and is run by former employees Germán and Valentín Granja, plus excellent head chef Dominga Rodriguez. (A second, newer strip mall location in East Hollywood offers easy parking right out front.) While Sabores Oaxaqueños lacks the festive atmosphere of Guelaguetza, the extensive menu of regional cooking is honestly far better executed here—from delicate moles to always-satisfying tlayudas and memelas. For an introductory family-style spread, look to the reasonably priced tour de Oaxaca, which features excellent enchiladas; quesadillas; chapulines (grasshoppers) with runny guacamole; molotes (meat-stuffed corn pastries); the classic Oaxacan meat-and-cheese combination of tasajo, cecina, chorizo and quesillo; and, last but not least, a vinegary pork leg escabeche. Vegetarians can feast on a selection of meat-free entrées like quesadillas and taquitos stuffed with Oaxaca’s famous cheese.
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