Gish Bac

Oaxaca natives David Padilla and Maria Ramos’ Mid-City restaurant is where Angelenos and their families pay respects to all things spiced and barbecued. Weekend-only barbacoa ($10.95) draws large crowds chowing down on goat meat enchilada in a mild tomato broth with crunchy cabbage and cilantro or blanco, juicy, bone-in lamb served with salty queso-sprinkled refried beans. Adventurous eaters opt for the lamb: pancita (stomach) cooked with iron rich blood, onion and spice seals the deal. The house trinity of salsas reside in bins under a shiny painting of the Virgin Mary: tangy tomatillo with avocado and cilantro, roasted tomato and spicy jalapeño. Of course, no Oaxacan eatery would be complete without mole. Gish Bac’s mole negro ($9.45) is particularly good with chicken leg and thigh blanketed in a well-balanced sauce of smokiness and spice.