Historical highlights of Tokyo and Fukushima

An essential part of any trip to Fukushima is Tsuruga Castle in Aizu-Wakamatsu City, built in 1384, demolished in 1874 and reconstructed in 1965. The very Instagrammable castle keep-which stands 36-metre tall, functions as a lookout and museum. On your way up, you can explore the history of the feudal lords who ruled Aizu, see weapons produced by local craftsmen and learn the fascinating story of the Byakkotai (white tiger force), a group of 20 teenage samurai who chose to take their own lives on a nearby hill during the Boshin War in 1868, believing, wrongly, that the castle’s defences had been breached.

The Battle of Aizu was one of the key engagements in the aforementioned conflict, which pitted the new imperial government's forces against the defenders of warrior rule, and the fate of these young samurai remains a central element of local lore. The castle grounds also include a traditional teahouse, where you can enjoy a cup of matcha and some wagashi (Japanese sweets) for ¥600.

Visible from the lookout platform on the top floor of Tsuruga Castle is Mt Iimori, the very hill where the Byakkotai met their fate. In addition to their graves, still tended to by both locals and history buffs visiting from further afield, this solemn spot is home to Sazaedo, a hexagon-shaped temple constructed entirely of wood, built in 1796. A structure echoing its mind-bending shape is said to have been attempted – unsuccessfully – by Da Vinci himself.

Pay ¥400 at the stall outside to enter the winding passageway, which takes you to the top of the structure and all the way back down again – without the two directions ever crossing paths. It only takes a few minutes to visit Sazaedo, but its uniquely labyrinthine structure and mysterious atmosphere make the building worth the quick detour from the main path, which leads from the foot of the hill straight to the Byakkotai tombs. On your way back down, make sure to stop at the cluster of little shops at the bottom of the stone staircase to try a manju sweet steamed bun.

Located less than an hour’s drive south from the regional hub of Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Ouchi-juku is a picturesque village, which has been used as a “post town” ( a rest place travellers journeying across the country) since 1640. Its thatched-roof houses have changed little since the Edo period and now host a charming selection of shops and cafés, many of which have been run by the same family for generations.

Make sure to try eating soba noodles with a leek instead of chopsticks – a local speciality that tastes far better than you’d expect. Also, pick up some local sake at the cute little liquor store. What’s more, stroll all the way through the village to the store steps at the back. These lead to an observation platform, which offers the ultimate time traveller’s photo op.

Ouchijuku is at its most beautiful in February- the month the annual Snow Festival is held- when thick snow blankets the thatched rooftops. That being said, summer is an equally good time to visit, thanks to the cool mountain air and numerous weekend events.