On the trail of Japan’s most renowned samurai warriors

Visitor’s guide to Tokyo and Tohoku: tracing the country's samurai history

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Email WhatsApp

Time Out in association with Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau

Friday 14 September 2018

Advertising

Tokyo and Sendai are related by the fact that two of the most influential warriors in Japanese history ruled in each of the cities at the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1868). Tokyo’s Imperial Palace was the headquarters of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, who ruled over the whole Japan. Contemporary Miyagi prefecture with its capital Sendai, on the other hand, was controlled by Date Masamune, the first feudal lord of the Sendai Domain and an important ally of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Trace the history of Japan’s samurai history at these five historical spots.

Also see: The complete guide to Tokyo and Tohoku

Sendai City

Zuihoden

Taira Masao

Zuihoden is the mausoleum of Date Masamune (1567-1636), one of the most powerful feudal lords of the Edo period. Also known as the ‘One-eyed Dragon’, due to the loss of his right eye, he ruled over the Sendai Domain and was the founder of the contemporary city of Sendai. He was much feared in his days, yet he was very educated and interested in the arts. Besides developing the area and expanding trade opportunities, Masamune invited foreigners to make use of their knowledge and technical skills.

As a valuable ally of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Masamune’s mausoleum follows in the same style as Tokugawa’s – a beautiful structure embellished with magnificent gold details, vibrant colours and detailed woodwork. It is a typical architectural construction of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1600).

Set amid lush greenery, the current Zuihoden and its surroundings are a faithful reproduction of the original structures that dates back to the 17th century, which were destroyed during World War II. The main building displays private belongings of the Date clan, including bones and hair, as well as ancient lacquer boxes, combs and weapons.

Sendai Castle Ruins & Sendai City Museum

Under Masamune’s order, the construction for Sendai Castle started in 1600, on top of Mt Aoba, at a height of 130m. The castle used to be the home base of the Date clan throughout the Edo period. Due to major fire outbreaks, earthquakes and World War II bombing, the once splendid castle is now left with its outer stone wall and a guard tower.

Nevertheless, the castle grounds afford a spectacular view of Sendai. The site’s large equestrian monument of Date Masamune, dressed in black armour with his golden, crescent moon-bearing helmet, overlooks the whole area, and is one of the most visited landmarks in Sendai.

As soon as you head down the northern slope of Mt Aoba, you will reach the Sendai City Museum. The museum boasts an impressive collection of about 97,000 artefacts pertaining to the history, culture and art of the Sendai Domain.

Marvel at numerous relics from the Date clan, such as Masamune’s suit of armour, and several items collected from Hasekura Tsunenaga’s diplomatic mission to Europe under Masamune’s command. This collection is a National Treasure of Japan and part of it was declared as one of Unesco’s ‘Memory of the World’.

Osaki Hachimangu Shrine

Osaki Hachimangu was built between 1604 and 1607 by the most renowned craftsmen of the time, under the order of Date Masamune. Enshrining Hachiman, the tutelary god of warriors, this shrine features a gongen-zukuri construction, where the worship hall in the front and the main sanctuary in the back are connected by a room called ishinoma. The shrine’s black lacquer finishing, the bright coloured roof carvings, as well as the many gold leaf details are breathtaking, thus earning its place as one of Japan’s National Treasures.

As soon as you pass the towering vermilion gate flanked by two large stone lanterns, and stroll along the wide stone path lined by cedar trees, you’ll notice the majestic vibe of the powerful Date clan, taking you back to more than 400 years in history.

Tokyo

Imperial Palace

Tokyo’s Imperial Palace was built on the former site of the Edo Castle, which used to span across the entire Marunouchi area and Tokyo Station. Built in the middle of the 15th century, it acted as the home base of the Tokugawa dynasty. From here, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa clan ruled over Japan. He brought back stability to the country and supported foreign trade.

The palace grounds that exist today include the Imperial Palace and its East Garden plus the Kitanomura Park. Some of the relics that are still standing are the Fujimi-yagura (a three-storey guard tower constructed in 1659), the main gate to the castle Ote-mon, the Hirakawa-mon gate, and moats and massive stone walls.

The inner grounds, which house the palace building, are not open to visitors, except on January 2 for the New Year’s Greeting, and December 23, the Emperor’s Birthday. Visitors are able to see the Imperial Family a few times a day during the public appearances on a balcony. Nevertheless, you can attend guided tours of selected parts of the palace grounds which are held in English and Japanese daily, except Sundays, Mondays, national holidays and New Year’s holidays.

The Kitanomura Park, on the other hand, is home to Nippon Budokan, The Science Museum Tokyo, the National Museum Of Modern Art Tokyo (MOMAT) and the MOMAT Crafts Gallery.

Ueno Toshogu Shrine

Hideo Matsuda

This elegant shrine with a golden door, designated a Cultural Property of Japan, is hidden in Ueno Park. Dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, Toshogu was built in 1627 and renovated extensively in 1651. The connection between the Tokugawa clan and the shrine is made evident with the display of the Tokugawa family crests.

Similar to Sendai’s Osaki Hachimangu, this Toshogu shrine was designed in the gongen-zukuri style, an exemplary symbol of traditional Edo-period architecture. This shrine has survived major earthquakes and wars throughout history, thus making it one of Tokyo’s oldest constructions.
Ueno Toshogu boasts a fascinating facade clad in gold leaf (especially on the doors and pillars), the typical black lacquer finishing, and intricate colourful carvings on the ceilings. The Sukibei Wall, which surrounds the grounds, is painted in vermilion and decorated with carvings of animals and sea creatures.

Besides the 200-plus stone lanterns, the courtyard in front of the Karamon gate and the pathway leading to the shrine feature 48 majestic copper lanterns. All of them were donated by powerful feudal lords from all over the country and dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu.