Seafood delights in Tokyo and Miyagi

Visitor’s guide to Tokyo and Tohoku: where to find the best fish and seafood

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Time Out in association with Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau

Monday 15 October 2018

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Home to the planet's greatest fish market and a restaurant scene unlike anywhere else in the world, Tokyo is heaven on earth for gourmands with a passion for seafood. But with the fish markets buzzing with people, and the famous sushi joints usually booked full up to a year in advance, connoisseurs of seafood may want to look beyond the obvious spots to satisfy their cravings.

One destination worth getting out of the capital for is the Sanriku coastline in Miyagi prefecture, hard hit by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami but now well on the way to restoring its reputation as one of Japan's premier oyster regions.

Also boasting one of the country's ‘three most beautiful views’ (as illustrated in the book ‘Nihonkoku Jisekiko’ by confucian scholar Hayashi Shunsai at the beginning of the Edo period), Miyagi is just a 90-minute shinkansen ride from the capital and makes for an attractive weekend getaway. Here we look at a handful of sights and good food up in the Tohoku region, plus point the way to a couple of less crowded fish-eater's finds right here in Tokyo.

Also see: The complete guide to Tokyo and Tohoku

Miyagi

Matsushima Bay

Taira Masao

Matsushima Bay, that certifiably ‘beautiful view’ we mentioned earlier, has been an in-demand destination for travelers over the centuries. A preferred imagery of Japanese artists since the early Edo era, the landscape consists of some 260 tiny, pine-covered limestone islands dotting a cove of almost impossibly still waters.

From the shore, it looks like something Katsushika Hokusai (the Japanese artist famed for ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’) might have dreamt up, with hazy sunlight and ocean blues. On the back of a ferry, weaving between the islands and the poles of an occasional oyster farm, you’ll feel lost in the picture and possibly in time. Marubun Matsushima Kisen operates daily cruises from Matsushima – book online for a 10 percent discount or just buy a ticket on the day.

On land, the main attraction here is Zuiganji Temple, built in the year 828 and remodeled by feudal lord Date Masamune in the early 1600s. It's famed for the grand walkway and nearby gardens with moss-covered caves – a beautiful testament to the passage of time and the resilience of this region's residents.

Matsushima is best reached by train from Sendai: it's approximately 40-minutes on the JR Senseki line to Matsushima-Kaigan Station.

Must-eat treats in Matsushima

Right, enough of the sights for now – the seafood is what you came for, right? If you’re in Miyagi at any time between late October and late March, it would be a crime not to sample the region’s famous oysters. Matsushima is packed with restaurants serving these delectable bivalves, which can be sampled raw, grilled, deep-fried, steeped in soba broth or even sandwiched in a bun, burger-style. That last option is available at the local fish market’s on-site eatery, open daily from 8am to 3pm.

From late autumn to early spring, you can try grilling your own oysters at the town’s kakigoya (literally ‘oyster shack’). If you’re going in summer, know that conger eel (anago) is another local speciality, in season from May to October and served over rice with sweet shoyu-based sauce at Santori Chaya, just a quick stroll from where the sightseeing boats depart. For dessert, look out for a café or street stall dealing in zunda milkshakes – this creamy green concoction is made from edamame but its refreshingly sweet flavour hardly even suggests said izakaya staple.

Shiogama Seafood Wholesale Market

Those looking for a deeper dive into Miyagi’s culinary scene will want to hop back on the train (or on a boat – there’s daily service from Matsushima) and ride down to the town of Shiogama. Get off at Higashi-Shiogama Station and walk about 15 minutes to Shiogama Seafood Wholesale Market, the pulsating hub of one of Japan’s busiest fishing ports.

Around 140 shops peddle their tasty wares inside, but first-time visitors are best off heading straight for the kaisendon corner. This is where you pay ¥300 for miso soup and a bowl of rice, which you can then pile on the fishy toppings of your choosing, all reasonably priced. Each little treat from the ocean is as fresh as it gets and you might find yourself trying to fit even more pieces of grilled oyster or scallop, tuna, and sea bream in your already overflowing bowl. Note that the market is open from early morning, wrapping up business at 1pm on weekdays and 2pm on weekends. It’s closed every Wednesday.

Tokyo

Adachi Wholesale Market

A lesser known fish market with a friendly old-town feel, the Adachi Market in northern Tokyo is popular for its many seafood restaurants where you don’t have to queue for hours to get a seat.

Head over early to watch the trade spectacle of the biggest tuna you’ll ever seen up close and start your day with a meal of the freshest seafood. The Adachi Wholesale Market has a simple but comfy cafeteria serving some of the best-value sushi in town, alongside deep-fried mackerel, select seafood over rice and even hearty Japanese curry.

The Adachi Wholesale Market Day, held on the second Saturday of every second month (for just a few hours in the morning), is a special showcase catering to visitors. The market will be brimming with crowds, and you’ll get to see the resident fishmongers put on tuna-cutting performances. They will be more than happy to give you some cooking tips – especially if you make a purchase at their shops.

Senju-Ohashi on the Keisei line is the station closest to the market, but you can also walk from either Kita-Senju or Minami-Senju. Note that the market is open from 5.30am until 3pm in the afternoon. It’s closed every Sunday.

Zauo

Tokyo takes fresh seafood to the next level at Zauo, the restaurant chain where you can catch your own dinner. At the Shinjuku branch, you're greeted by a giant, boat-shaped seating area, and surrounding that is a moat teeming with all kinds of fish. Once you're seated, you'll be handed a fishing rod and some bait, and you're free to go fish. Bear in mind: there's no such thing as ‘catch and release’ here. If you caught it, you bought it. Expect to spend ¥4,000 to ¥5,000 on dinner, though the price varies according to catch.

Zauo does fish well, and even grilled it’s moist and light. The only seasonings are salt and lemon, to ensure that the fish’s natural flavour is most prominent. If you plan to fish, don’t arrive hungry – it can be a while before the underwater residents take interest in your bait. If you do manage to snag something, you'll be lauded in front of the whole restaurant with a special chant. Failing that, you can always order directly from the menu.