Impressive architecture in Yamagata and Tokyo

Mt Haguro is one of the three holy mountains in the Yamagata prefecture which are collectively known as Dewa Sanzan. ‘Dewa’ is the name of the old province which became the Yamagata prefecture of today, and ‘sanzan’ literally means ‘three mountains’. With a shrine on each mountain summit, Dewa Sanzan is a popular spot for spiritual pilgrimages since 1,400 years ago.

Nestled in a tranquil setting with an abundance of lush cedar trees, Mt Haguro houses one of Japan’s National Treasures, an ancient five-storey pagoda. First constructed during the Heian Period (794-1185), the wooden pagoda was rebuilt in 1372 into its current design and is Tohoku’s oldest with a height of 29.2 metres.

Perhaps what’s most impressive about this ancient tower is its elegant proportions and perfect symmetry, evident from its five equally-sized roofs, which are built in the style of kokerabuki using wooden shingles. Through the years, the pagoda has aged beautifully, looking like a mystical structure that’s plucked from a fairy tale.

Each of the three sacred mountains has its own shrine, collectively called the shrines of Dewa Sanzan. The most important of the three is the Ideha Shrine, located on the summit of Mt Haguro (414m), and reachable by 2,446 stone steps.

Instead of venerating only one deity, its Sanjin Gosaiden worship hall enshrines all three gods of Dewa Sanzan, making it easier for pilgrims to pay their respects even during harsh winter months when access to Mt Gassan (1,984m) and Mt Yudono (1,500m) is impossible.

Due to major fire damage in the past, the current Sanjin Gosaiden is a reconstruction of the original structure, completed in 1818. With its vibrant red-laquered, wooden design and intricate dragon carvings, it boasts a height of 28m, a width of 17m and a depth of 24.2m. This Important Cultural Property is Japan’s largest shrine with a splendid 2.1m thick thatched-roof construction, which is made to endure the winter months of heavy snow.

This interactive museum showcases the different architectural constructions of past centuries, and it’s located within the former outer courtyard of Tsuruoka castle. Founded in 1950 by the previous Lord Tadanaga Sakai, you are able to enter the ancient buildings to not only imagine the lifestyle of its former residents but also learn about Yamagata’s heritage through 5,350 ‘Important Tangible Folk Cultural Properties’ of Japan.

You can also take in the tranquil scenery of the Sakai clan’s traditional Japanese garden, which follows the unique style of shoin-zukuri. This design focused on the landscape as seen from the observer inside a room of an adjoining building. With a scenery resembling a miniature gorge, the garden was designated a Japanese place of scenic beauty.

As for the other historical buildings onsite, they were dismantled from their original location and moved to the grounds of Chido Museum. The two other properties designated as ‘Important Cultural Property of Japan’ are from the Meiji period (1868-1912) and boast European architectural designs – they are a good example of the influence of the West during this era. The Nishitagawa District Office, for example, follows a symmetric arrangement with a clock tower on top plus a balcony above the entrance, while the Tsurugaoka Police Station features a gabled, hipped roof.

In contrast to these relatively modern constructions stands the three-storey, multilayered farmhouse of the Shibuya family, which was built in 1822 and relocated in 1965 from Asahi Village at the foot of Dewa Sanzan’s Mt Yudono.