The ultimate guide to Tanjong Pagar

This time-honoured rice dumpling store has been around since the 1940s. It has since passed into the hands of third-generation owner Ryk Chew, who continues his grandfather's legacy of plump and delicious Hokkien-style bak chang. Here, you'll find shiny, dark glutinous rice stuffed with meat and chestnuts, wrapped in fragrant bamboo leaves. 

Home to a plethora of food stalls that champion different local fare – from flavourful Hainanese chicken rice and nasi lemak to wholesome porridge and mee pok – Maxwell Food Centre stands amongst the favourites for lunchtime nosh in the CBD. The chicken rice hype is real here: you can’t leave this hawker centre without ordering from Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice where Michelin-starred heavyweight Gordon Ramsay and celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain were impressed with its take on the national dish. 

Try Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice’s signature dish — fragrant rice and deboned chicken smothered in light soy sauce, best paired with garlic and chilli sauce. For something less intense, check out Zhen Zhen Porridge for steaming hot bowls of chicken and fish porridge topped with ginger shreds.

Rishi Naleendra is a prodigy among chefs. His restaurant on Amoy Street, however, breaks away from the modern Australian cocoon he was known for at Cheek by Jowl. The menu at Cloudstreet showcases progressive dishes that take inspiration from Australia, Japan, Sri Lanka and other parts of the world. Tasting menus are priced from $248 for a six-course lunch on Fridays and Saturdays, and beverage pairings are priced from $268. Here’s a tip if you’re heading over: set aside at least three hours for your tastings so you can enjoy the full culinary experience.

Helmed by a mother-daughter duo, Kueh Ho Jiak is your one-stop-shop for your traditional kueh needs, with a twist. Young hawker Elizabeth Chan presses ang ku kueh into shapes of teddy bears and koi fishes, using sweet potato to create adorable variants of the traditional treat. 

At the stall, you'll find colourful balls of ondeh ondeh, rice kueh in a rare hue of orange, and even ang ku kueh with unique fillings of cempedek and spicy shrimp. Got a special celebration? Kueh Ho Jiak also does kueh dessert tables and other custom-shaped treats.

For a taste of experimental Indian cuisine beyond thosai and butter chicken, definitely do not miss this contemporary Indian restaurant along Keong Saik Road. Chef Murugan Thevar serves up creative yet satisfyingly delicious plates inspired by his travels around South Asia and his Penang heritage – from the kokum spiced gujiya and winter rhubarb chaat. The lunch menu is only available on Saturdays, while dinner is available from Tuesdays to Saturdays, and both menus are priced at $298 per diner.

This Michelin Bib Gourmand winner on Peck Seah Street is out to prove that going plant-based doesn't mean you have to give up your favourite Southeast Asian dishes. Whole Earth serves up a curious mix of Thai and Peranakan vegetarian dishes, including the sweet and sour ‘pork’ and crispy handmade yam rings stuffed with treasures. Don’t miss out on the Nonya curry too – this hearty Peranakan-style curry is served with minced mushrooms that resemble meatballs and potatoes. Other vegetarian takes on zi char staples include sweet and sour ‘pork’ and crispy handmade yam rings stuffed with treasures.

Jigger and Pony is a popular drinking den for locals and tourists, thanks to its vivacious atmosphere and superb service. In fact, it’s even made it to the World’s 50 best bars in 2024. Regulars will know that the bar’s ever-changing magazine menu, or menu-zine, is always something worth browsing. Modelled after Monocle, it reads like a lifestyle magazine complete with styled shoots, illustrations, guest articles and recipe pages. The classic cocktails are what draws the crowd – we’re talking about the Godfather and Old Fashioned, as well as the crowd favourite Espresso Martini, all made with locally sourced ingredients.

This cosy establishment on the second storey of a shophouse along Amoy Street clinched a spot on Asia's 50 Best Bars in 2024, and for good reason. At Native, head bartender Vijay Mudaliar showcases unique spirits from around the region and occasionally deploys foraged ingredients to add pep and zing to his cocktails. Some of these ingredients include toasted black rice, purple sweet potato, thai basil, roasted ginger, and bonito garum – sounds unusual, so you’ll have to personally head down to give it a taste yourself.

This tiny 10-seater bar first started out in the hidden alleys of Tanjong Pagar, making a name for itself with its experimental ideas and ever-changing cocktail menu. Junior The Pocket Bar has now moved to a bigger space – fit to house its growing customer base and ambition. It introduces two original concepts every year, and its unique  cocktails range from coconut vinegar-infused bourbons to minty gins with house-made Aam Panna mixes.  

Restaurant Jag is best known for its celebration of produce from the Savoie region. And beyond just the dinner table, the wild-foraged ingredients can also be found in cocktails at Flow Bar. The one-Michelin-starred restaurant has converted its second-floor space into a drinking hole, one that defies the expectations of a usual bar set-up. The open and inviting space is matched with an accessible cocktail menu divided into three sections: Living Room, Garden, and Playground to guide you through easy-to-love creations to experimental tipples. Must gets: the burnt lemon whisky sour, the addictive espresso martini, and Cinnamon Girl. 

Dive into the calming rituals of tea appreciation at Tea Chapter, a teahouse along Neil Road that has been around for more than 30 years. Step into variously styled rooms – Korean, Japanese and Chinese – and sip on fragrant cups of tea alongside traditional Chinese snacks. Up for an educational experience? You can also sign up for workshops to learn more about the history of tea and the art of traditional tea-making at Tea Chapter. 

There's nothing quite like a comforting hot cup of kopi to start your day – and Tanjong Pagar is the place to be for OG coffee spots. Quite arguably the most iconic Kopitiam in Singapore, Tong Ah Eating House was once located at the triangular building at the junction of Teck Lim and Keong Saik Road (now home to 1939 Singapore). It has since moved a few stalls away from its original spot. But it's still a local favourite for super crispy kaya toast, French toast and kopi – where the beans are roasted in-house.

They say one man's junk is another man's treasure. And for antique collectors, Tong Mern Sern is a haven right in the heart of Singapore. This long, three-storey shophouse on Craig Road is the only one on the block that’s not been refurbished, and for good reason.

It is lined and packed with trinkets and treasures – from jade cabbages in cabinets, porcelain plates on the walls and typewriters lining the stairwells, to old Chinese dressing tables and an ancient music player that looks like an oversized, numberless grandfather clock with the functions of a pianola. Spend your afternoon leisurely sifting through the store – you never know what treasures you might find.

You don't need a special occasion to treat yourself to gorgeous lingerie – especially when they're as dreamy and comfortable as the bralettes from local lingerie brand Perk by Kate. Originally an online store founded by Singaporean Kate Low, the brand now can be found in a physical studio on Telok Ayer Street. You'll have to make an appointment before you drop by though, but it's worth your while. After all, lingerie shopping is the epitome of self-care.  

Nasi lemak, spicy fortune cookies and silver dust aren't the usual tea flavours we see, but ETTE's blends are daring enough to bring these flavours to its brews. Step into its retail store at Kreta Ayer Road and be wowed by the pretty caddies and sachets, which come in various locally inspired flavours like Chicken Rice. The Pandan Chiffon evokes memories of the childhood snack, while the Kris Grey tastes much like Earl Grey, but spiked with Southeast Asian ingredients.