How does one brace oneself for a four-hour dinner in a two-Michelin-starred restaurant? The answer, as we’ve discovered at Cloudstreet, is to simply allow yourself to be taken away. Stepping in from the electrifying energy of Amoy Street to the intimate psyche of chef Rishi Naleendra that is Cloudstreet, the disjunct is jarring. It helps to know that every restaurant deserving of a star is more than the plates it puts out. Storytelling, art, design, and service – they’re all part and parcel of the experience, meant to inform and enliven the food.
Cloudstreet is Rishi; it’s the essence of his person distilled into a two-storey shophouse space. The restaurant opens up like a biography, every element a nod to a fragment of the chef’s life, from his love for Tim Winton novels, his childhood in raucous war-torn Sri Lanka, and short-lived architectural dream in Melbourne, to his foray into hospitality, finding love, and then landing in Singapore. Chef Rishi’s breakthrough came during his time at the now defunct Maca, and he later on earned his keep – and his first star – at Cheek by Jowl. Then came along Kotuwa and Fool Wine Bar.
But Cloudstreet has always been that anchor space for deeply personal exploration through food. The eight-course tasting menu ($398 per person) starts with five snacks served as individual courses, with the first bite being an Australian Coffin Bay oyster wrapped in betel leaf, a nod to the Sri Lankan custom of serving guests betel leaves as a welcome snack. The parcel sits in a pool of coconut milk and is finished with citrusy pops of finger lime. This effortless blending of Australian and Sri Lankan influences will carry on throughout the meal.
The expertly grilled Australian Blue Marron – if you’re lucky enough to visit while it’s in season – is served with a Sri Lankan spiced millet porridge, pickled sea coconut, and a yellow curry broth. The dish is at once familiar yet extraordinary; the bulbous texture of the Marron and the aromatic yet mellow broth stand out. It’s also in this course where the beverage pairing (from $168) truly sings, compliments to Beverage Director Benjamin Hasko. Even the non-alcoholic accompaniments are painstakingly deliberated. Here, a jackfruit and coconut water infusion (called Jack & Jill) amplifies the fragrance of the yellow curry, perfecting each mouthful when washed down together.
The same wondrous experience repeats in the next course of grilled New South Wales Murray cod with bell pepper purée and caviar. The three-day dry-aged fish sops up the flavour-packed purée with the subtlest whiff of toasted almonds, and it’s a non-alcoholic clarified banana drink that latches onto that final nutty note, going down nicely together.
Simple does it with the final main course of grilled A4 wagyu beef, the surprise here being the unintentionally 14-month-aged soy sauce that’s served alongside it – a kitchen accident turned happy. But the most understated star of the meal comes right before the wagyu, and it’s none other than the quintessential bread course. Rye flour is mixed with Sri Lankan stout and liquorice to form a dense, almost cake-like bun that’s glazed with molasses and sea salt. There’s only one way to enjoy this, and that’s lathered with generous heaps of French butter. Second helpings are welcome as well.
The journey continues at Cirrus, Cloudstreet’s newest second-floor venue where guests are invited to adjourn for cheeses and dessert. Walking up and settling down itself makes for a much-needed interlude before the grazing continues. Pre-dessert comes in the form of a zesty mandarin sorbet to reawaken the palate, followed by a series of two desserts and petit fours. Since dining here is nothing short of a languid affair, lunch is only offered on Fridays and Saturdays, with a condensed six-course menu ($248) or the standard eight-course ($398) if you’re down for the full experience.