curry puff
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

Makan Spotlight: Curry Puffs

Golden, crispy, and tasty – the potato-filled curry puff is one all-day snack we can’t resist in Singapore

Cam Khalid
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With iconic powerhouse dishes like chilli crab and chicken rice, the humble curry puff is hardly the first thing you think of when it comes to local fare. Nonetheless, the golden-brown Southeast Asian snack has become a part of Singapore’s food identity, with roots that can be traced to the region’s colonial past.

Although the origin of the curry puff is a bit hazy, it’s believed to be introduced in Maritime Southeast Asia where the various influences of the British Cornish pasty, the Portuguese empanada, and the Indian samosa came into play. But despite their likeness, the curry puff differs from its predecessors in terms of spices and pastry.

Baked or deep-fried, it is usually generously stuffed with curried chicken, potatoes and hard-boiled egg – all encased in a pastry shell that’s thick enough to keep them from oozing out. To jazz it up, some stalls have added variations to their menu with savoury fillings that include sardine, tuna, and beef rendang, and even sweeter ones like durian, custard and yam. 

Other versions include the epok-epok and karipap. The Malay epok-epok is thinner and smaller than the usual curry puff, while the Indian karipap uses layered pastry that creates a flaky crust. Like roti prata, these bite-sized treats make satisfying snacks that can be enjoyed at any time of the day for a small price. Setting you back no more than $2, these bad boys will easily have you going back for seconds or thirds – we won’t judge.

RECOMMENDED: Makan Spotlight: Roti Prata and Makan Spotlight: Roti John

Back to basics

  • Tanjong Pagar

How often do you hear a story about a sailor who inspired a pastry chef’s life-long career? Well, that’s the interesting tale of Rolina founder Tham Niap Tong whose chance encounter led him to make his Michelin Bib Gourmand-worthy curry puffs. And that’s not the only weird yet wonderful story he has – the name Rolina was christened by customers who came to his original stall at Thomson, near Novena Church. “The aunties who came to my stall couldn’t pronounce ‘Novena’, and would call it ‘Rolina’ instead – that’s how I got the name,” he shared with us in a previous interview.

Halfway between an Old Chang Kee crescent and a Malay epok-epok, these golden puffs ($1.50) have a thin crust and filling that’s more spicy than sweet. They’re also a lot smaller than mass-produced ones, although that’s more than made up for with the chunks of chicken, potatoes and egg – you won’t find pockets of air in this one.

  • Hawker
  • Raffles Place

At $1.20, J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff might just be the cheapest Michelin Bib Gourmand fare. With buttery and flaky pastry, we can see how it managed to win the honour. The handmade puffs come with different stuffings including the usual suspects of curried potato, and sardine, as well as other flavours like the savoury black pepper chicken, and the slightly sweet yam paste.

The husband-and-wife team makes only 500 puffs a day and fries them fresh throughout the day. Its crispy curry puffs tend to sell out by lunchtime, so be sure to beat the crowd by heading down early to not miss out on these tasty afternoon treats.

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  • Hawker
  • Chinatown

A favourite among Hong Lim Market & Food Centre frequenters, this stall is affectionately loved by many for its potato chicken with egg curry puff ($1.70), which has landed them on newspapers and television shows such as Snack Attack. And there’s a tasty reason behind the attention – its extra crunchy pastry is similar to that of McDonald’s apple pie crust, and is always generously stuffed.

With a twist

  • Singaporean
  • Geylang

As its name suggests, Epok Epok Central serves up the Malay version of empanadas – a small, fried, thin-crust pocket loaded with meat, potatoes and/or vegetables. The hawker stall's humble beginnings go back nearly 40 years ago when it started out as a pushcart in Geylang. Today, it calls the Eunos Crescent Market & Food Centre home, and remains one of the pioneer stalls there – it’s also my childhood go-to.

The family business continues to make epok-epok from scratch, using a recipe that has been passed down from generation to generation. These bite-sized snacks are crispier than the usual curry puff and not as buttery. It also comes with three different fillings including spicy potato, egg, and sardine (a personal favourite). Plus, each costs less than a dollar – win!

  • Bakeries
  • Geylang

First opened in 1942, this Joo Chiat gem is the oldest surviving Muslim bakery in Singapore. The family-run heritage shop is best known for its karipap and curry buns. Considerably different from the curry puff and epok epok, its karipap (from $2) is a rectangular treat with layers of thin pastry, and filled with a savoury mix of potatoes and meat that will leave you wanting more.

If you like your karipap flaky and crispy, Indian-Muslim Bakery & Confectionary’s star snack is the one. Treat yourself to a variety of flavours like the signature beef and chicken, beef rendang, black pepper beef, smoked duck, and more.

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  • Singaporean
  • Marine Parade

Before relocating to the tranquil street of East Coast Road, Soon Soon Huat Curry Puff used to fuel the residents of Eunos Crescent with its signature crispy yet buttery puffs. Each puff has a flaky and layered exterior and comes complete with mildly flavoured curry chicken and potato chunks, so that kids can enjoy them too.

If you happen to be in Katong, squeeze some time for a pitstop at Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff. Besides its signature curry puff ($1.70), it also has otah ($2), spicy sardine ($1.20), and slightly sweet custard ($1.20). The durian puff ($2) is only available during the weekend, and brings the powerful flavours of D24 durian, coconut milk and custard into one ‘sinful’ puff.

  • Singaporean
  • Rochor

You can never go wrong with Old Chang Kee – it’s the go-to if you need a midday deep-fried snack. Making waves all over the world from Malaysia to the UK, this local superstar actually started as a humble stall in a now-defunct coffee shop along Mackenzie Road before branching out with more than 50 franchised outlets around the island. 

The curry puffs here (from $1.50) are slightly bigger and are filled with various fillings, from the signature chicken curry puff with potato and egg to unique seasonal flavours like beef rendang, chilli crab and even nasi lemak (and yes, it comes in green instead of the golden-brown hue). The crust, on the other hand, is a combo of melt-in-your-mouth buttery and shortcrust pastry-crumbly, so expect things to get pretty messy with every bite.

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  • Singaporean
  • Raffles Place

Another iconic heritage brand, Tip Top Curry Puff is one for those who can handle the heat. It first made its name in Ang Mo Kio, satiating the appetites of residents with its popular handmade curry puff since 1979. Its signature pocket-sized nosh (from $1.60) is made with a special blend of 18 spices, premium potatoes and ingredients, wrapped in pastry skin that gives its crispy shell when deep-fried.

For something beyond the usual, its Nonya beef rendang puff ($2) will send you straight to Flavortown. The golden-brown goodie comes complete with tender beef chunks marinated in flavourful rendang gravy. Those on a meatless diet won’t even have to miss out – Tip Top Curry Puff also does Impossible puff ($2.20) which uses plant-based meat instead.

  • Singaporean
  • Tanjong Pagar

Polar’s history dates back to 1926 when it first opened doors on 51 High Street, selling its signature curry puffs as well as ice cream and chilled refreshments. Its second outlet didn’t come to fruition until December 1986, and the rest is – as they say – history. Today, it has over 30 outlets islandwide.

What sets Polar apart from other stalls is its baked curry puff, which is like a crossover between the karipap and the Cornish pasty. Each puff is loaded with savoury meat encased in flaky pastry. Besides the usual curry puff ($2), it also has vegetarian puff ($1.90), otah puff ($2.30), tuna puff ($2.30), and black pepper chicken puff ($2.40).

Makan Spotlight

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