Popiah
Photograph: Ariyani Tedjo/Shutterstock
Photograph: Ariyani Tedjo/Shutterstock

Makan Spotlight: Popiah

It’s a spring roll, it’s a wrap – no, it’s popiah! Here are the best spots for traditional, fusion, and DIY popiah

Cam Khalid
Advertising

There’s something so satisfying about sinking your teeth into popiah (Teochew for ‘thin pancake’). The spring roll-like snack is a soft, thin paper-like crepe made from wheat flour wrapped tightly with all the trimmings like cooked turnip, jicama (known locally as bengkuang), bean sprouts, and lettuce leaves, topped with sweet bean sauce. Sometimes it comes with peanuts, shredded omelette, and prawns too. A good popiah skin should never be soggy or crispy (a deep-fried version is the spring roll).

Although the comfort food is easily found islandwide and loved by locals, it’s not exactly Singaporean. The popiah's origin dates back to the 17th century, with roots in the Fujian province of China. Legend has it that it actually started in the Ming Dynasty when an imperial officer was too busy writing his official documents to have a proper meal. And so his wife put together some ingredients and wrapped it all up with a paper-thin wheat skin for him. 

Thanks to the Chinese diaspora, the popiah was introduced throughout Asia. It has even spawned different variants of the roll, including the Nonya popiah in Malaysia and Singapore. Whether you’re looking for the perfect mid-day grub or DIY popiah set for some family fun, we’ve rounded up the best places to get your popiah fix – both traditional and contemporary.

RECOMMENDED: Makan spotlight: biryani, thunder tea rice, and kueh

Best places for traditional popiah

  • Chinese
  • Geylang

The family business has been making popiah skins the traditional way – from scratch, by hand – since 1938. The halal-certified shop was mainly known for popiah skins before going with the full shebang – the result is a warm, chewy bite with ingredients such as egg, prawn, and sweet and savoury sauces ($2.50). It also offers kueh pie tie, sweet black sauce, and other ingredients to DIY your own popiah. It’s also one of the few places where you can watch the chefs twirl the dough to create these delicate but resilient layers.

  • Chinese
  • Chinatown

Said to be the oldest restaurant in Singapore – they’ve been going strong since 1929 – the family-run establishment has captured our hearts with its signature popiah. After all, the way to the heart is through the stomach. Made with soft, stewed bamboo shoots, lots of crunchy julienned vegetables and a decent amount of prawns (or crabmeat), it’s not the cheapest ($7.50 a roll) but it’s worth the extra dough.

Popiah with a twist

  • Contemporary Asian
  • Tampines

While the founders of Fortune Food made their name specialising in popiah skins and operating hawker stalls, the younger generation of the family makes popiah that likens a wrap. But don’t be deceived by its looks – it’s still very much a popiah with its traditional thin wheat skin. Filling-wise, it’s a fusion of flavours like masala chicken ($5.80), sweet Thai chicken ($5.50), and seafood wasabi may ($6). But if you want to play it safe, the traditional popiah goes at $3.30 a pop.

  • Contemporary Asian
  • Ang Mo Kio

What started from a humble coffee shop at Bedok North has turned into one of the most popular popiah brands in Singapore. Mr. Popiah draws crowds in with a wide range of customisable rolls and unconventional offerings like sushi popiah ($4) and salted egg prawn popiah ($5) – and they're halal too. It has also expanded its business by selling popiah via vending machines, and popiah skins and pastry sheets in supermarkets. It’s also set to take the world by storm – via popiah, of course.

DIY your own popiah

  • Peranakan
  • Changi 

Whether you’re a tourist on the hunt for local cuisine or a Singaporean craving for Peranakan comfort food when you touch down, Violet Oon Singapore is sure to hit the spot. Gather around the communal table and make your own Nyonya Popiah ($58). Each platter comes with 12 different toppings including steamed prawns, Chinese sausage and braised bamboo shoots, as well as jicama. There are six skins you can gussy a roll up to your liking – figuring out how much you can stuff in there without breaking the skin is half the fun. Eating it like a burrito is the other half.

  • Singaporean
  • Raffles Place

The flagship restaurant of The Warehouse Hotel has a signature popiah platter ($28), where you have a hand in assembling the dish your way, just like if popo made it at home. The classic platter comes with wheat skin, stewed pork and vegetable filling, lettuce, beansprouts, crispy flatfish, as well as all the toppings and sauces. For an additional $10, you can get a claypot of cooked tiger prawns, and another $10 on top for handpicked flower crabmeat.

Advertising
  • Pan-Asian
  • Rochor
  • price 1 of 4

Test your popiah making skills at this third-generation family business, specialising in Hokkien-style popiah. Unlike traditional popiah, the Hokkien version has a jicama mixture that consists of bamboo shoots, carrots, long beans and dried shrimp. Order the six piece popiah set ($19) and get started. You can also beef your rolls up with lup cheong for an additional $4.80, or prawns or crab meat for $6.80.

Makan Spotlight

Advertising
Recommended
    More on iconic eats
      You may also like
      You may also like
      Advertising