Kabukiza night
Image: Shochiku
Image: Shochiku

Best things to do in Ginza after dark

What do you do in Tokyo's shopping mecca after all the stores have closed for the night? We discover a different side to Ginza from dusk to dawn

Mari Hiratsuka
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With its procession of fancy designer stores and luxury kimono dealers, Ginza has always upheld its reputation as the ritzy shopping district of Tokyo. But look beyond the gilded shops and you’ll also find some of the city’s best restaurants and cocktail bars (though many of them feature prices as high as the neighbourhood’s skyscrapers). While most people visit the area during the day, there’s certainly a lot you can do in Ginza at night, when the shops have closed and the tour bus crowds have left. 

  • Higashi-Ginza

Since opening in 1889, this cherished symbol of Ginza has undergone multiple facelifts and renovations, but it has always remained a shrine to kabuki (classic Japanese dance-drama). After its reopening in 2013 – following an extensive renovation designed by Kengo Kuma – the building is now lit up beautifully after dark. But don’t just marvel at the exterior, venture inside and take in a kabuki show. Performances are held most days of the month, but if you can’t commit to an entire three-hour show, there are single-act tickets, called Hitomaku-mi, available for purchase at the door (¥1,000-¥2,000).

  • Ginza
  • price 2 of 4
Bar-hop along Corridor-gai
Bar-hop along Corridor-gai

In recent years, Corridor-gai has become known as party central, especially on Friday nights when the street is crowded with people having a good time to celebrate the end of the working week. This street, which runs for about 400m, is dotted with a wide variety of bars and restaurants. The century-old eel restaurant Oowada is a good place to start; otherwise, head to Toro Tokyo for Mexican food or Tentan Chinese restaurant for its delicious hotpot. End your night at Vapeur, a lively bar with French flair.

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  • Health and beauty
  • Ginza

If you want to rest your weary legs after lots of walking, head to this public bathhouse on Ginza Chuo-dori Street, which has been in operation since 1863. The high ceilings and luxurious design give the bathhouse an open, spacious feel. Paintings by Morio Nakajima, one of Japan’s foremost painters, depict Mt Fuji in shades of blue at the women’s bath area, while the men’s depicts the iconic peak in reds. There’s also a superb painting of carp on Kutani porcelain tiles. Do note that the water temperature here is on the high side (43C).

  • Japanese
  • Ginza
Savour premium beef at Kato Gyunikuten
Savour premium beef at Kato Gyunikuten

While Ginza has a vast selection of fine cuisine, Kato Gyunikuten, which accepts orders until 10pm, offers the opportunity to enjoy high-grade meat late into the night. The butcher-restaurant’s extensive selection of beef comes from virgin Yamagata heifers that boast fine marbling and rich umami flavour. Course meals start at ¥17,000, where you get the chance to sample a total of seven items including house-made corned beef, sirloin, fillet, rump steak and hamburg steak.

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  • Ginza
  • price 2 of 4
Relax over fine cocktails at Lupin
Relax over fine cocktails at Lupin

Taking its name from the gentleman thief Arsène Lupin, this bar is a Ginza institution. It opened for business in 1928 and was a favourite haunt of many of Japan’s leading literary figures such as Kyoka Izumi, Kan Kikuchi and Osamu Dazai – you’ll still find photographs of these writer-patrons hanging in the bar. We recommend the Lupin speciality Spicy Moscow Mule (¥1,200) as well as sharing a ‘Sardines in Oil Set’ (¥1,100, for two) for a snack. A cover charge of ¥800 will be added to your bill.

  • Nightlife
  • Late-night bars
  • Ginza
Listen to music until dawn at Ginza Music Bar
Listen to music until dawn at Ginza Music Bar

This music bar is a joint project by coffee mogul Nobuhiro Toriba with music producers Takeshi Kobayashi and Shinichi Osawa. Over 3,000 analogue records encompassing everything from rock to jazz, new wave, techno and movie soundtracks plus a high-end sound system (it uses mainly Tannoy and McIntosh amps and speakers) give this space a serious geeky appeal. In addition to the regular ‘Kayo Night’ where you can enjoy Japanese pop songs from the Showa era, the bar also hosts live sets by Japanese DJs (including heavyweights such as Toshiyuki Goto and DJ Nori) on selected weekdays.

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  • Shopping
  • Ginza
Sample fine food at Ginza Six
Sample fine food at Ginza Six

Ginza Six is easily one of the most impressive temples of consumerism in the area, with streetfront stores parading some of the world’s most coveted brands. It features the art-themed Ginza Tsutaya Books, an expansive boutique-style beauty floor, a noh theatre, and several dining floors with restaurants that stay open long after the mall’s shops have shuttered. Try the premium beef at Yakiniku Sansui, or the soba at Ginza Sanada Six, or head to Ginza Grand Premium Food Hall for a selection of classic Japanese cuisine. 

  • Shopping
  • Gifts and souvenirs
  • Ginza

The Ginza West tearoom on Sotobori-dori is the best spot to have tea and cake at night. It has had a strong following ever since opening in 1947. The retro yet elegant interior design will have you sitting up straight in your seat while you admire the classic 78rpm records from the 1940s on display. You can’t go wrong with the mille-feuille – layers of custard sandwiched between sheets of delicate puff pastry. We’ll let you into a secret: you can request to replace the custard cream with ice cream which is even better.

Discover Ginza during daylight

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