10 vanishing heritage foods in Singapore to try before they're gone

What it is: Also spelled as lor gai yik, this Cantonese dish consists of chicken wings braised with red yeast rice fermented bean curd and several mixed meats like gizzards, pork offal and cuttlefish. Popular in the 1950s and 1960s, it is described as salty and sweet due to its bean curd base and has a rich depth of flavour from long hours of simmering. Lor gai yik is also said to resemble other dishes in appearance, like Chinese red wine chicken and Peranakan toh hay. 

Where to find it: Charlie’s Peranakan Food is one of just two places left in Singapore where you can still find this old-school dish ($22), made from a cherished recipe handed down from the owner’s mother. Despite the tedious preparation involved, Charlie’s biggest motivation is his desire to share traditional foods with the younger generation, since maintaining demand is crucial for sustaining the supply of such heritage dishes.

What it is: While you might be familiar with Singapore’s more popular laksas – like Penang laksa and Katong or Nonya laksa – a rarer version is the Malay laksa Siglap, also referred to as laksa chap. This dish dates back to kampong Siglap in the 1900s, once renowned for its fishing villages and coconut plantations. Unlike the Nonya version with its creamy shrimp-based gravy, or the brinier Penang laksa, this mostly-forgotten style of laksa features a nutty and sour broth, thanks to the ginger, tamarind and lemongrass used. It’s also thicker in consistency, from the addition of pounded ikan parang flakes and toasted coconut. Additionally, the noodles used in laksa Siglap aren’t just your common thick bee hoon. Made of tapioca starch and rice flour, you’ll find that these noodles are as thick as udon, yet as soft and sticky as bee tai mak.

Where to find it: Though only a few stores still sell this nostalgic dish, you’ll find that Lemaq in Bedok cooks up a hearty bowl of this uniquely Singaporean laksa at $5 a pop, prepared from a thirty year-old family recipe. It also serves other must-try Malay and Indonesian delights like gado-gado, ayam masak merah, and kueh jongkong.

What it is: Known as crystal dumplings in English, this old-school Teochew hawker classic consists of fillings encased in a thin and translucent sweet potato flour pastry skin. You’ll find vegetables and minced meat to be the most common stuffings, but sweet ingredients like red beans and mashed yam are also used. The pastry skin, which is light and chewy rather than gummy, is kept supple and moist from steaming in oil. With the contrast between the crunchy fillings and the soft, elastic outer layer, it’s easy to understand why this delicacy was so popular in its day.

Where to find it: Having started as a hawker stall in Tiong Bahru Hawker Centre in the 1950s, Tiong Bahru Lien Fa Shui Jing Pau, now located in Bukit Merah, remains one of the few stalls that still makes chwee jia bao entirely from scratch – from crafting the wrappers to hand-chopping the fillings. This dedication to the craft is likely why the stall is even listed in the Michelin Guide. The effort and nostalgia alone makes it worth a visit to savour this vanishing dish.

What it is: Mulligatawny, directly translated as ‘pepper water’, is an Anglo-Indian comfort soup related to rasam, a spicy soup-like dish from the same region that’s eaten with sambar rice. This South Indian classic dates back to the days of colonial rule in the 18th century, when the British were not used to eating rice and breads without first having soup as part of their meals. Originally just a mixture of pepper and water, it's bulked up thanks to the addition of lentils, meats, and vegetables. Today, you’ll find many variations of this comfort soup but at its core, mulligatawny is a humble dish that only requires lentils and spices like black pepper and tamarind.

Where to find it: The Padang Restaurant at the Singapore Cricket Club along Connaught Drive is famed for its rendition of this homely dish for $10 a bowl. Having been around since 1852, the restaurant’s mulligatawny has remained a favourite among diners who continue to return for it year after year. Theirs is a hearty curry soup topped with rice, fried shallots and fresh spring onions.

What it is: Curry Feng, or just Feng, is similar to the more recognised Eurasian dish, Devil’s Curry. It’s a thick curry made with offal and is eaten during many Eurasian festivities in Singapore and Malaysia. Portuguese ships that were en route to various destinations would carry livestock onboard and after the best cuts were served, the meat leftovers would be cooked into a stew. This offal stew was naturally introduced to locals when the Portuguese settled, eventually transforming into the Feng known today. If you’re looking to make this at home as many Eurasian families still do, you can look to Jeya Spices for his version of the Feng spice mix. 

Where to find it: Quentin’s at the Eurasian Heritage Gallery prepares this traditional curry ($23.60) with finely diced pork, liver and pork heart, all stewed till tender. Don’t let the green tint of the end result put you off though. While it’s not the prettiest dish, its taste more than makes up for its appearance. Any strong offal flavours are tempered by the vinegar, spices and onions.  We recommend enjoying it with slices of toasted baguette or some fluffy rice for a comforting meal.

What it is: Though many in Singapore might associate Hainanese cuisine with the iconic chicken rice, yi bua is a lesser-known delicacy. This beloved Hainanese kueh is made from glutinous rice flour and packed with a flavorful mix of grated coconut, gula melaka, toasted peanuts, toasted sesame seeds, and grated ginger. It’s wrapped in a banana leaf box and steamed, ensuring the dough is mochi-like, resembling muah chee. The filling is both sweet and nutty, with a subtle spicy kick from the ginger. Yi bua is not complete without its signature red dot in its centre. It’s often eaten during special occasions such as weddings and baby full-month celebrations. Though it's more well-known within the Hainanese community itself, the rarity of it in stalls leaves this snack at risk of disappearing entirely. 

Where to find it: If you enjoy the punch of ginger and chunky bites of coconut, you’ll find these to be nice contrasts to the smooth stickiness of the glutinous rice flour. For a taste of this Hainanese delight, check out Hainan Cuisine & Snacks at Kim Keat Palm Market and Food Centre, a family-run stall running since 1978 that sells this traditional kueh ($1.40) and Hainanese laksa.

What it is: Also referred to as abuk-abuk daun, this traditional Nyonya kueh originates in Malaysia and is made with small tapioca pearls, also known as sago. Like many other Southeast Asian treats, it's filled with a mixture of shredded coconut and palm sugar, or gula melaka for a more traditional taste. It’s then wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. The result is a lightly sweet and sticky, chewy kueh that is soft and bouncy in texture and also aromatic, thanks to the fragrance imparted from the banana leaves. Kueh abuk-abuk sagu is similar to its Chinese counterpart that’s filled with red bean paste instead.  

Where to find it: Now mostly found only in home kitchens, this kueh is rarely seen anymore. However, you can still get a taste of it from Deli Maslina in Bedok, a kueh specialist that has been around since the 1980s. They make it without much variation from the original recipe of shredded coconut and palm sugar, so you’ll be getting the most authentic taste of this sweet treat that they sell at $6 for 5 pieces.

What it is: Arguably the most unusual dish on this list, Teochew jellied pig trotters is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Also known as tir kah dang in Teochew, this dish is time-consuming to make and challenging to serve in Singapore’s sweltering heat. It consists of diced meat and skin cooked for hours by the stove until it boils down into a collagen-rich consommé that eventually solidifies into a savoury jelly. These jellied meat cubes are served on ice with a side of chilli to prevent it from liquifying too quickly. As you can imagine, it melts on the tongue in a burst of flavour that is rich and umami-packed, with bits of tenderised meat for some bite. Though it can take hours to slow-cook the stock and days to set the jelly, the effort is worth it for those who appreciate the rustic taste of this heritage dish.

Where to find it: If you’re keen to try it, visit Lao Liang Pig Trotter Jelly & Shark Meat at Berseh Food Centre, one of the few stalls still offering it. With over 50 years of experience in preparing this laborious dish ($5-$10), you can be sure that you’re getting the real deal. We recommend dipping it in accompanying homemade chilli for a tangy kick to the rich-umami flavour of the meat broth.

What it is: The Hakkas arrived in Singapore in the early 19th century, bringing with them a variety of delicacies, many of which are still enjoyed today – think Hakka yong tau foo, salt-baked chicken, and lei cha, or thunder tea rice. While these dishes are still commonly found, this cannot be said for suan pan zi, known as yam abacus seeds. These savoury and chewy thick discs of yam and tapioca dough, resembling Italian gnocchi, are steamed or boiled then stir-fried with dried shrimp, black fungus and mushrooms. It’s commonly served during the Lunar New Year; however, the labour involved, from steaming the yam to shaping it, means it is typically reserved for special occasions. 

Where to find it: You’ll want to try this dish at Plum Village Hakka Restaurant at Jalan Leban, one of oldest and last Hakka restaurants in Singapore. This family-run heritage spot has been serving traditional foods since 1969 and makes its suan pan zi ($11-$22) from scratch. Other must-trys include their popular Hakka yong tau foo and pork belly with mustard greens.

What it is: Though many might prefer the robust taste of braised duck, don't knock this version of duck until you’ve tried it. Salted duck has its roots in our kampong days when ducks were poached due to the rarity of spices and herbs for braising. After poaching, the duck was generously salted and served. Though it may seem less flavorful compared to braising or roasting, the natural flavour of the duck comes across more prominently with this cooking method.

Where to find it: If you’re looking to taste this underrated style of duck, Benson Salted Duck Rice in Toa Payoh will be your go-to. They poach whole ducks sous-vide style, in an aromatic mixture of lemongrass, garlic, ginger and pandan leaves to remove some of the gaminess. The ducks are then soaked in salt water, giving them their white appearance and salty taste. Reminiscent of a plate of steamed chicken rice with a zesty chilli accompaniment to boot, this nostalgic dish ($4-$5.50) is a must-try on your bucket list.