Five game-changing restaurants of 2012

San Francisco import—and prevailing food-world darling—Danny Bowien delivered the year’s most madcap, and fiery, fare: a delicious and unlikely hybrid of potent Szechuan, Southern barbecue and old-fashioned Chinese-American takeout. 154 Orchard St between Rivington and Stanton Sts (212-529-8800, missionchinesefood.com)

This shamelessly opulent grand hotel brasserie—from Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the dynamos behind Eleven Madison Park—showcased a rare return to New York City’s gilded-age decadence, with luxurious food in a sultry setting. 1170 Broadway at 28th St (347-472-5660, thenomadhotel.com)

The stealthiest opening of the year lured gastronauts to Bushwick for Carlo Mirarchi’s three-hour, 20-some-odd-course feast, helping to make Brooklyn—even at the high end—the city’s most exciting place to eat. 261 Moore St between Bogart and White Sts, Bushwick, Brooklyn (646-703-2715, blancanyc.com)

Andy Ricker’s true taste of Thailand proved you don’t need to be reared in Chiang Mai to cook like a real native son. 127 Columbia St between DeGraw and Kane Sts, Red Hook, Brooklyn (718-923-9322, pokpokny.com)

Noma cofounder Mads Refslund brought New York its first taste of what a bold new generation has been cooking up near the arctic circle, with the city’s first outpost of New Nordic cuisine. 9 Great Jones St between Broadway and Lafayette St (212-203-2121, acmenyc.com)