It’s been nearly three years since Scandinavian cuisine exploded across the New York dining scene, led in part by this then cutting-edge Noho favorite from restaurateurs Jean-Marc Houmard, Jon Neidich and Huy Chi Le (Indochine, Tijuana Picnic). Following the departure of Danish executive chef Mads Refslund in December 2015, the trio enlisted chef-partner Brian Loiacono (db Bistro Moderne, Ruschmeyer’s in Montauk, NY) to oversee the restaurant’s transition from experimental new Nordic to more conservative Italian-French bistro fare. On the revamped menu are starters such as clams casino with bone marrow and a butternut squash steak, as well as meaty mains including brick chicken with leeks and skirt steak with caramelized endive. Though less of a comprehensive overhaul than the food menu, a design tweak brightens the rustic space with pieces from artists like Chuck Close, Robert Longo and Julian Schnabel.
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