Restaurante, Carne, Espetada de Carne Madeirense
©Gonçalo F. SantosEspetada de Carne Madeirense
©Gonçalo F. Santos

The best restaurants to try the famous Madeira skewers

It is a mandatory dish to eat on a trip to the island.

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There are some mandatory delicacies when traveling to Madeira. Bolo do caco spread with butter or limpets are some of them, and great as starters. But when it comes to main courses, you won't find anything as famous as the typical Madeira skewers (sorry to all our vegetarian and vegan friends). The typical Madeiran skewer is made with tender beef, bay leaf, salt and garlic, on a laurel stick. Times have changed and now it is usually served on a metal skewer. But don't worry because the flavor and juices were kept, even more enhanced with the butter put on the skewer already on the table, which runs down the squares of meat. If in the past they were only served at popular Madeiran festivals, now there are restaurants that serve very good skewers. It should always be served with fried corn, french fries, salad and bolo do caco with garlic butter. Here are six places where eating skewers in Madeira is still as it used to be.

One of the best-known restaurants in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. It opened in 1966 as a tavern serving petiscos (tapas) and drinks. It has undergone changes over the years, but the management has remained in the same family as the founder. It is now a well-presented restaurant with wooden tables and a beautiful counter in the centre, decorated with firewood. Espetada de carne (meat kebab) is the most-requested dish, of course, accompanied with milho frito, batata frita e salada (fried corn - which is popular on Madeira, chips and salad). Here you can still ask for the meat to come on a laurel skewer. They recommend washing it down with the house sangria.

At O Lagar, with its large space that is ideal for special events, the espetada (kebab) is the house speciality. The succulent and tender meat in this €13 dish is seasoned with salt, garlic and bay leaf. And it is accompanied with milho frito (the popular Madeiran fried corn) in a base of cornflour, chopped cabbage, salt, olive oil, savoury and bolo do caco (Madeiran flat bread). Occasionally there is a performance of traditional Madeiran dancing just to give diners the full experience.

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This restaurant’s menu is very simple and without artifice (just like the uncluttered décor): it serves only two dishes – frango (chicken) and espetada (kebabs). The espetada portion is quite generous, with each skewer holding around ten large pieces of meat and costing €11 (perfect for two people who couldn’t eat a horse). It comes with chips, the ever-popular Madeiran fried corn and bolo do caco (Madeiran flat bread). The desserts are all home made, and we recommend the pudim de maracujá (passion fruit pudding). We suggest you book a table because, while it is farther from the centre of Funchal, it’s usually full.

Viola is popular with locals, who regularly eat traditional espetada (kebabs) which are sure to be tender and succulent. It is very popular, so please be patient with the waiters, and arrive early to be sure of a table. It also serves good poncha, in case you have to wait.

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The espetada (kebab) seasoning is hand crushed with the help of a rock, then rubbed onto each piece of meat before it is skewered (and for €20.80, you can ask for a laurel wood skewer), and then gently cooked on an acacia wood grill. It arrives promptly, accompanied with chips, garlic and herbs and the popular Madeiran fried corn. This is a large restaurant with lots of tables.

A traditional casa de pasto (eating house) in Chão da Ribeiro with a welcoming homely atmosphere. It serves espetadas (kebabs) in the old-fashioned way, baked in a stone oven and on laurel bread, but it’s better to order in advance to make sure it’s ready when you arrive. The specials include galinha bêbada (drunk chicken) and truta fresca (fresh trout) from a local fish farm

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