TongTemToh
Photograph: TongTemToh
Photograph: TongTemToh

The best places in Chiang Mai for Northern Thai food

There’s no denying that Chiang Mai is a paradise for food lovers

Aydan Stuart
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There’s no denying that Chiang Mai is a paradise for food lovers, with almost every cuisine you can imagine served up somewhere in the city. But despite the many options, there’s arguably no better way to experience Chiang Mai’s culinary soul than diving headfirst into Northern Thai cuisine. 

Often overshadowed by the ever-popular tastes of Isan, Northern Thai food takes a bold approach to spice and seasoning, packed with flagrant spice and ingredients straight out of the jungle. From the zing of nam prik noom (young chilli dip) to the interestingly creamy bows of khao soi (curried noodle soup), there’s a unique menu of flavours you’ll find nowhere else but the north. 

At TimeOut, we love to celebrate the best food and the fanciest of restaurants, but in this article we’ll take you back to basics – out on the street, down secret alleys and into the jungle as we round up the best spots in Chiang Mai to eat authentic northern Thai cuisine. 

One of the best spots in the city to try the jungly side of northern Thai food in a space that’s a little more restaurant than market. It’s best known for its wide range of menu items that are made using local ingredients and a lot of spice. The rustic decor of thatched roofs and herb garden outside adds to the vibe, making it a favourite among locals and visitors alike. It’s got so popular in recent years that it’s made the Michelin Guide and has a steady flow of celebs and influencers through its door. 

Their must-try dish: If you don’t dare to eat anything too bug-like, close your eyes and just try their ant egg omelette. It’s like little pops of butter in your mouth…

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Trendy and always full of diners, this is the go-to spot in Nimmanhaemin for easy-to-eat northern Thai fare. Although overloaded at peak hours by locals and tour groups drawn in by their smokey grilled meats, dips and curries, once you do get a table you’ll see why it's so popular. The food is as authentic as it comes but their mild spice options make it a great starting point for any northern Thai food virgins. They’ve become so famous that they’ve opened up shop in Bangkok too, down Soi 44, Charoenkrung Road. 

Their must-try dish: Gaeng Hang Lay curry is a northern curry that finds its origins in Shan cuisine, and Tong Tem Toh’s addition of fatty pork and crunch peanut topping is second to none.

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There’s hundreds (literally hundreds) of khao soi restaurants in Chiang Mai and there’s really no way of telling which one is best. Many say eating khao soi is a very personal experience, so we’ll let you decide – but for us, Khao Soi Lamduan Fa Ham is up there with the best. A city legend that’s been open over 70 years (yes, seven-zero) they clearly know what they’re doing. They’re another for the Michelin Guide, so if you’re a newbie to this as well, it's a great place to get initiated. 

Their must-try dish: Khao soi, surprisingly! But we say go for the beef version that’s soft, chewy and crunchy all in one bite. Pair it up with a side of pork satay and you’re all set. 

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A go-to spot for Chiang Mai University students, their cheap, almost tapas-style servings of grilled meat, grilled eggs, northern laap krua and spicy-sour soups are unmatched. Found deep down Soi Wat Umong, you’ll see it for the smoky grill that encroaches onto the road with rows and rows of pork and eggs on sticks absorbing the woody aroma. 

Their must-try dish: Honestly, it’s the combination of fatty grilled meats and oil-cutting spicy soups that makes the flavour of Laap Lung Noi. But if you have to try one thing, it’s their perfectly grilled intestines on sticks. 

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Housed in an 1880s shophouse mansion on Tha Phae road, this is where to come for the finer side of northern Thai dining. Kiti Panit paints an updated picture of Lanna cuisine with beautifully presented curries, meats and salads served alongside locally sourced beverages and an extensive selection of paired wines. Definitely on the higher side of the budget, but a brilliant place for dates and celebrations that’s unique and different from your usual western fine dining fare. 

Their must-try dish: Their braised pork rib soup Pak Kad Jor Moo is a great centrepiece to an indulgent selection of pick and share dishes. 

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Raw meat is back on the menu – and here’s where you can try it. Northern Thai food is famous for its laap, a meat salad that’s distinctly different from its Isan counterpart thanks to the addition of blood, cumin and a number of other jungle herbs and spices. Traditionally consumed in both cooked and raw forms, this roadside restaurant just out of town keeps culture alive (in both senses!) with their menu of raw buffalo salads, spicy soups and offal grill. 

Their must-try dish: A safe space for raw meat, push the boat out and shove a warm ball of sticky rice into a spicy raw buffalo laap salad. 

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Huen Muan Jai

With former TV chef Charan Thipeung in the kitchen, Huen Muan Jai is popular for two reasons – food and fame! With over a decade of experience serving northern Thai food to Chiang Mai’s harshest critics, their menu offers hard-to-find traditional dishes alongside some of the region's most classic favourites. Set inside a traditional Lanna-style house, their unique spice mixes mean for truly standout dishes. If you’re looking to try everything, the combo taster dish fancily named ‘hors d'oeuvres Lanna’ is a great place to start. 

Their must-try dish: The uniquely spiced minced fish laap is Michelin Guide recommended but we vote for their take on Sai Oua – the classic northern Thai spiced sausage.

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