The 23 best things to do in Venice

Napoleon called this ‘the drawing room of Europe’, and even with today’s crowds and thickets of selfie sticks, St Mark’s Square is as refined as ever. Ride the elevator to the top of the campanile (bell tower) for drone-style views, watch high tides bubble up through the drains (note: that’s why you shouldn’t be splashing through the water barefoot), and visit the famous Correr Museum, located above the famous porticos. Most importantly, have a drink at one of the famous cafes, some of which have been going strong for hundreds of years. Florian has been serving eager Venice tourists since 1720, but our tip is for Quadri, on the opposite side of the square – it’s owned by the local Alajmo brothers, who have a Michelin-starred restaurant upstairs and gourmet bar snacks downstairs. 

Few buildings on the planet are as gloriously camp as the pink-tinged, candy-striped Doge’s Palace, dandling on the water’s edge. It’s certainly seen some action – the political heart of the Venetian Republic, which lasted for over 1000 years until 1797, this is where doges were ‘crowned’ (and the naughty ones executed), while prisoners were tried and marched to their deaths over the Bridge of Sighs. Some of the greatest artists of the Renaissance came to slather its walls in paintings, and even Casanova was imprisoned here, although he swiftly escaped over the rooftops to slay another day. Leave enough time to see it properly – highlights include the one of the largest canvas paintings in the world (‘Paradise’ by Tintoretto in the Sala del Maggior Consiglio), the seriously creepy prisons, and the Bridge of Sighs, where you can recreate your own death walk. The regular exhibitions, including contemporary art installations, are always worth a look. 

All that glitters probably is gold, if the Venetians are anything to go by. They looted left right and centre, down the Adriatic and across to Constantinople to make this, their main church, as spectacular as possible. From the intricate Byzantine-style mosaics on the floor (don’t miss the rhinoceros) to the glowing golden roof and wall mosaics, whose saints and martyrs sparkle, it’s deliciously outré. For a small extra fee you can visit the museum upstairs, and walk outside for views of the Piazza. 

This is one of the world’s greatest waterways for good reason – splitting Venice neatly into two, lined with palazzos each fancier than the next, and crossed by just four bridges, including the Rialto (below). Luckily in this most expensive of cities, public transport plies exactly the same route around its legendary bends as you’d take in a taxi or a gondola – you just have to make sure you bag a decent seat. Hop on the number 1 boat at Piazzale Roma, and it’ll take you on a 45-minute leisurely cruise, past churches (including the iconic domed Salute church) mindblowingly beautiful palazzos like the gothic wedding cake that is Ca’ d’Oro, fancy hotels like the Aman (where you might get a glimpse of Clooney and his ilk), and gliding under the Rialto. Because it’s a busy waterway, seeing the Grand Canal by gondola can be pretty stressful – you’re better off hopping into one at a quieter stop. What you should do here, though, is take a ride in a traghetto – essentially a public gondola, they cross the Grand Canal at five points. You get all the views, with less of the waves caused by all the boats – and all for €2 a pop.

Only in Venice can a bridge be a tourist attraction, a work of art… and a shopping mall. The marble-clad affair, linking the San Marco and San Polo districts via the Grand Canal since 1591, is second only to Piazza San Marco when it comes to visitor numbers. Fight for a space to get a prime view of the Grand Canal, check out the shops that line it (but be aware they’re mostly tourist traps), and most importantly cross it (if you’re coming from the San Marco side) to reach the market that’s been going strong for over 1,000 years. Today, the market itself may be of slightly less interest to visitors, since it’s mainly fruit, veg and fish, but the bars that have fuelled market workers for centuries are some of the best in the city for both atmosphere and cicchetti (see below).

People often slate Venice as expensive – with bad food. These people haven’t eaten cicchetti, the legendary Venetian bar snacks, which started as bitesize fodder for gondoliers and workers on the run. Today, they usually come in the form of slices of baguette bread topped with anything from seafood to meat and cheese – you’ll find some of the best in town at Schiavi in Dorsoduro, where gourmet toppings include egg dusted with tiny flowers and tuna tartare with a sprinkling of cacao. The more traditional cicchetti, though, don’t involve bread – they’re anything from a boiled egg with anchovies, to sarde in saor, sweet-sour-style sardines marinated with onion, raisins and pine nuts. Pair it with an ombra – the Venetian term for a small glass of house wine. The bars around the Rialto market are a good place to start a cicchetti crawl. 

When Napoleon conquered Venice, he swiped plenty of its best Renaissance artworks and took them back to France. Lots have been recovered, however, and are now part of this vast gallery, one of the best in Italy, sporting one of the finest collections of Renaissance art on the planet. The high-ceilinged rooms are stuffed with altarpieces by Venetian greats like Titian, Tintoretto, Bellini and Carpaccio, as well as those who hit the big time here, from Mantegna to Veronese. Look out for contemporary exhibitions, too, especially in Biennale years – a recent Anish Kapoor show was mesmerising. 

Burano might be a 40-minute Vaporetto from the main island, but it’s worth the day trip. This island is filled with homes painted in every colour of the rainbow. Stroll past the 13th-century church of Santa Caterina to check out local restaurants, like the Trattoria Al Gatto Nero, which serves fresh seafood and homemade pasta (look for the bright blue building).

Throughout the rest of Italy a scuola is a school, but in Venice it’s something altogether less pedestrian – essentially a group of locals who come together to do charitable deeds, and, more excitingly for today’s tourists, called in the best artists of the time to do the decoration. This is the best, covered almost entirely in paintings by Tintoretto – including the kaleidoscopic ceiling in the main room upstairs. It’s a mindblowing place – pick up one of the mirrors on hand so you don’t crick your neck, and follow the cycle. Don’t miss the wall seats sporting esoteric carved figures, either – including what looks like a cowboy. 

Today, it’s almost exclusively tourists that take part in Carnevale – Venice’s carnival – but that doesn’t make it any less spectacular. Visit during February (usually, depending on the dates – but it ends on Shrove Tuesday) and you’ll find the streets full of your fellow visitors dressed up (you can tell the foreigners because they’ll be dressed in antique-style garb while Italians will be in general fancy dress). So grab a mask – splash out on one from a local artisan rather than buying a cheap plastic one from a stall, you won’t regret it – and join the crowds. You’ll find the official events listed on the Venice Carnival website each year – the most spectacular one is the Volo dell’Angelo, which marks the start of the Carnival, with a young woman ‘flying’ on a zipline from the campanile to the Doge’s Palace.