Torcello, Burano and Murano
A 50-minute vaporetto from Venice.
Don’t miss out on the Venetian islands just outside of Venice. You can reach them all by vaporetto (the Venetian waterbus), and they’re quiet, beautiful little places to explore. Torcello gets a little slept on in terms of Italian destinations, but this tiny little island is well worth a visit. Only about a dozen people live there, and you can spend your days wandering through the Locanda Cipriani and the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta totally undisturbed. Or head to Murano for glass and sculpture, and Burano for excellent seafood picture-perfect, multi-coloured houses.
EAT:
Booking is essential at Locanda Cipriani on Torcello, a true Italian institution. Charlie Chaplin, Audrey Hepburn, Winston Churchill, Liza Minelli, Mick Jagger, and, most devotedly, Ernest Hemingway, have all wined and dined at Cipriani’s tables, where expert sommeliers advise on Venetian wines and bow-tied waiters serve up house classics including carpaccio, homemade pastas and a number of excellent fish dishes.
DRINK:
On the island of Burano, you’ll probably smell Panificio Pasticceria Garbo before you see it. This superb old-school Italian pasticerria specialises in delicious crunchy biscotti, which go down particularly well with the house hot chocolate.
DO:
Vintage Murano glass is coveted by curators and interior designers to this day. Open daily, the island’s Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) explores the island’s extraordinary glass-making dynasties as well as the intricate 4,000-year-old history of glass.
STAY:
It may be modest by Venetian palazzo standards, but the Murano Palace Hotel sure lays on a royal hospitality. Hosts Cesare and Donatella, both Muranese natives, go out of their way to make guests feel welcome and share their island tips, while the bright and spotless bedrooms look directly onto Murano’s main canal.
If you do just one thing...
Admire the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta on Torcello. One of the most ancient religious edifices in the entire Veneto region, it dates right back to 639. A rebuild in the eleventh century included two astonishing mosaics: a towering, celestial Madonna and Child on the apse and a frenzied Last Judgement on the West Wall. The reeling visual force of both mosaics is even more powerful amid the basilica’s calm – blissfully removed from the madding San Marco crowds.