Enoteca Al Volto claims to be the oldest wine bar in Venice, and while that may or may not be true, a few things are certain: They’ve been serving fairly priced wine, beer and cicchetti since before WWII, in a homey setting and without an ounce of pretension. Fans of baccalà mantecato, the storied Venetian cicchetti of creamed codfish served on polenta, will swear that Al Volto makes it best. You can order a simple ombra (a glass of wine in local slang) and a few small plates standing at the bar, or stay for a sit-down meal.
Time Out tip: Try to snag one of the few, highly coveted tables out front, and linger with your ombra and cicchetti. This is what you came to Venice for, and no one will rush you off.
Nearby:
Teatro Goldoni: For opera and plays in a 1622 theatre
Comune di Venezia: For a City Hall that puts others to shame
Rosa Salva Mercerie: For lovingly handmade chocolates and confections