Packed, loud and casually friendly, Alla Ciurma mixes market stallholders with locals and tourists in a happy confusion around a high counter packed with cicheti (snacks) of all kinds, including skewers of deep-fried seafood and – their speciality – king prawns wrapped in bacon.
Most people drop by for a glass of wine or a spritz (and alcohol is consumed throughout daylight hours here by stallholders whose day begins before dawn). There are a couple of tables to consume at, beneath the boat suspended from one wall: if you can bag a seat at lunch you can enjoy good salads and an excellent baccalà mantecato (creamed cod).