Yanaka Ginza
Photo: Sanga ParkYanaka Ginza shopping street
Photo: Sanga Park

7 best traditional neighbourhoods to explore in Tokyo

Go old-school with our guide to the seven best shitamachi traditional neighbourhoods to explore

Kaila Imada
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With its glittering skyscrapers and love of cutting-edge technology, Tokyo is undoubtedly a twenty-first century metropolis. But behind all the modernity, there are parts of the capital that have retained the vintage charm and distinctive culture that helped make the city what it is today. Old Tokyo is sometimes referred to as shitamachi, a term that translates to ‘lower city’, and is typically associated with areas around Tokyo that thrived before World War II.

Unlike other cities that may have a single old town area, Tokyo’s shitamachi neighbourhoods are scattered throughout the city. They are usually identified by their architectural makeup, consisting of small winding alleyways and traditional Showa- style buildings. If you want to get a feel for the Japanese capital before it powered the post-war economic miracle, here are some of the most popular spots where you can immerse yourself in Tokyo’s nostalgic atmosphere.

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An amalgamation of three smaller areas – Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi –Yanesen oozes a cool, bohemian old Tokyo atmosphere. It’s peppered with tiny mom-and-pop shops, trendy boutiques, cafés and art galleries, while there are also tranquil areas perfect for a stroll including cherry blossom hotspot Yanaka Cemetery and the beautiful Nezu Shrine.

Don't miss: Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street is bustling with life and offers a fun mix of shopping boutiques, street food vendors and souvenirs galore. Stop in for a drink at Echigoya Honten, a local institution where you can enjoy an alfresco beer or cup of sake among locals.

Mukojima

Sitting quite literally under the shadow of Tokyo Skytree, Mukojima is another traditional neighbourhood that has retained its old-fashioned spirit. Aside from Skytree, which was erected in 2012, the downtown area still has a lovely preserved shitamachi zone with many structures from the 1920s and 1930s still standing. The area was once a flourishing entertainment district, and today, it’s one of the rare areas in Tokyo where you might spot a real geisha.

Don't miss: Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens is a gorgeous flower park which is worth a visit at any time of year but is especially beautiful in spring when fuji or wisteria start to bloom, and in sum

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Fukagawa

This bayside district of eastern Tokyo is close to the city’s central business areas but has somehow maintained a laid-back ambiance. Today, Fukagawa often plays host to many of the city’s traditional festivals such as the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, held at Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine, and the cherry blossom-filled Oedo Fukagawa Sakura Festival. The famous Tokyo dish fukagawa-meshi (clam rice) was also born in this neighbourhood and is a must-try if you’re in the area.

Don't miss: The street leading up to Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple is worth a stroll. Lined with time-worn shops, cafés and restaurants, it almost feels as if you’re walking down a street in Kyoto rather than Tokyo. A short walk away you’ll find Fukagawajuku, a restaurant specialising in this neighbourhood’s famous seafood dish.

Iriya

Just north of the craziness around Asakusa, you’ll run into Iriya, a low- key neighbourhood where you can still find remnants of old Tokyo. The district is home to several small temples and shrines as well as many old houses and residences that are kept in great condition, giving the area an old-world feel. While there may be no big tourist attractions, the neighbourhood hosts one of Tokyo’s unique flower festivals, the Iriya Asagao Matsuri or Morning Glory Festival, where you can marvel at thousands of colourful blooms.

Don't miss: Stop for a tea or coffee break at Rebon Kaisaiyu, a long-standing sento bathhouse that was converted into a heritage café. We recommend the coffee and ice cream set, a scoop of the fruit- flavoured dessert paired with a fresh brew.

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Ningyocho

Situated within the central business district of Nihonbashi, Ningyocho translates to ‘doll town’ – it was once known for its many craftsmen that specialised in creating handmade dolls and puppets. As many theatres were destroyed towards the end of the Edo period (1603-1868), most of these craftsmen moved to Asakusa, but the area has kept its name. Today, you’ll find a mix of long- standing restaurants, sweet shops and traditional craft stores that still give off that shitamachi vibe. There are also two famous clock towers that come alive with a puppet show on the hour.

Don't miss: Settle in for a luxurious wagyu sukiyaki meal at Ningyocho Imahan. The revered restaurant was established more than 120 years ago and offers some of the finest quality meat, which is cooked right at the table in front of you.

Kameido

Found in the Koto ward, Kameido is a traditional neighbourhood that’s been revived by young Tokyoites and families moving in. Its most famous landmark, Kameido Tenjin Shrine, has become a popular spot for people to pray for academic success. If you’re looking for that retro atmosphere, though, head to Kameido Katori Kachiun shopping street, where many of the buildings are still standing from the Showa era (1926-1989).

Don't miss: Enjoy lunch and a shopping spree at Sano Miso Kameido Main Store, one of Tokyo’s trusted purveyors of miso since 1934. Not only does it stock 70 kinds of the famed fermented soybean paste from all around Japan, you can also try it out for yourself at the shop’s eat-in area where you can order miso soup and even miso desserts.

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Tsukishima

This waterside neighbourhood on a reclaimed island on the Sumida River has seen a lot of redevelopment, but still stays loyal to its shitamachi roots, especially around Monja Street, known for its plethora of restaurants serving a popular local dish. Monjayaki is Tokyo’s answer to okonomiyaki and sees pan-fried batter served with a variety of mix-ins and toppings.

Don't miss: After you’ve had your fill of monjayaki, walk over to Bar Soda, a quaint little drinking den specialising in Mexican spirits including tequila and mezcal. They’ve also got some tasty bites like tacos in the unlikely event you’ve still got room.

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