Kagurazaka
From the bottom of its main street, Kagurazaka looks like any other Tokyo neighbourhood with convenience stores, residential buildings and run-of-the-mill izakaya joints. But as you make your way uphill, you’ll notice that the community is a charming amalgamation of nostalgic establishments reminiscent of Edo Japan (1603-1867) and eateries with a modern European influence.
Though you could easily spend a whole Saturday hopping between the many cafés and sake stands in the neighbourhood, half the fun of Kagurazaka is in ambling through its peaceful backstreets for hidden gems. Forget the hip hotels – once you familiarise yourself with the area, you’ll want to move here permanently.
The perfect day Start with a savoury galette at Le Bretagne for brunch and order a seasonal crepe if you have room for dessert. Then head up the road and take a quick look at the vermilion Bishamonten Zenkokuji Temple, which has a history dating back to the 17th century, before scoping out the modern Akagi Shrine designed by Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma.
After checking out the exhibition at Cave-Ayumi Gallery, veer down one of the narrow cobblestone paths along the main road to do some window shopping for vintage homeware and Japanese ceramics. End the day with a dinner of hand-pulled soba noodles at Kyorakutei and a fresh fruit cocktail from Bar Lidemo.
Don’t miss Every July, lanterns are strung up along Kagurazaka's streets, and the main road is closed off to cars for the annual Kagurazaka Matsuri – a multi-day event involving parades, Awa Odori dance processions and a night market.