Taking up a considerable chunk of northern Arakawa Ward, Machiya is on nobody’s list for the most attractive neighbourhood in Tokyo. This outwardly unimpressive part of the old downtown is perhaps ‘best’ known for hosting the largest funeral home and crematory in the city, and wandering around the streets, visitors may be faced with rather visible signs of decline. Closed shops and rusty neighbourhood factories stand out, especially once you make your way a bit further from the rather newly redeveloped station area.
Nevertheless, don’t let first impressions turn you off: the area as a whole has actually been undergoing something of a revival in the past few years, with relatively low housing prices encouraging people to move in and new services to follow suit. All the while, the traditional shitamachi vibe is still strong here, and digging a bit deeper reveals plenty of spots worth visiting. Machiya is also much closer to central Tokyo than you might think – less than 15 minutes on the Chiyoda line from Otemachi. If you’re at all interested in discovering the less glamorous sides of the city, then this is the guide for you.
