Hamasaku Monja Kaikan

Tsukishima is where most Tokyoites go to have monja, but some swear that the only real version of this sticky soul food comes from Arakawa's Machiya. The area boasts the second-highest concentration of monja shops after Tsukishima, and upholds a lively and rich tradition of monja as an everyday, cheap snack. If you're looking to expand your knowledge of Tokyo's very own local speciality, Hamasaku is the place to start. This spacious second-floor joint is something of a local secret, with regulars streaming through the doors from early in the evening to sample authentic and delicious Machiya-style soul food. We have to admit that the taste rivals Tsukishima's gourmet creations, and at what prices: standard-sized servings start from ¥500 – rather more confidence-inspiring than the ¥100 version advertised next door. Note that the restaurant occasionally doesn't open until 5pm, often without any advance notice.