9 best Japanese denim shops in Tokyo

Ameyoko is a maze of alleyways running beneath the train tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations. These bustling shopping streets are known for everything from fresh fish to souvenirs, but particularly clothes. And at Hinoya, it’s high-quality denim you’ll find. 

You can browse a range of major Japanese and international denim brands. Expect to see the likes of Momotaro and Big John, as well as some lesser-known labels such as Oni Denim, Yen Jeans and Burgus Plus. Hinoya also has two sister stores next door with even more denim brands, but if it’s jeans you’re looking for, this main shop is your best bet.

Momotaro Jeans hails from Kojima in Okayama prefecture, often considered the birthplace of Japanese denim. The brand's name is also linked to Okayama, coming from the traditional folklore tale 'Momotaro', which is closely linked with the prefecture.

At the Aoyama boutique, you’ll find the brand’s full denim range, including jeans, jackets, shirts, shoes and small accessories. Momotaro denim is made from Zimbabwe cotton, which is commonly used for high-quality dress shirts and offers a flexible feel, excellent durability and unique fading characteristics.

If you purchase a pair of jeans at the shop, you can even have them hemmed free of charge on the same day. This might not sound so exciting, but it’s worth sticking around for the process as the shop uses a special antique chain stitch sewing machine to make the alterations.

This chic denim store inside the glitzy Ginza Six shopping centre is the flagship for Japan Denim, whose name says almost everything you need to know. But there's a deeper backstory to this fashion brand.

Japan Denim fuses varying fabrics and production techniques to create items with renowned fashion designers and labels. You'll find one-of-a-kind collaborations such as women's denim skirts and dresses by Japanese designer Emori and classic jeans by popular denim brand Yanuk.

If you can’t make it to Ginza, you can explore Japan Denim’s virtual showroom to take a closer look at the garments.

Founded in Osaka back in 1991, Evisu has grown to become one of Japan’s most prominent denim labels. It started out as one of the original ‘Osaka Five’ and has gone on to shape the Japanese denim industry through its success in overseas markets. 

Through all its fame and success, Evisu has stayed true to its roots, still focusing on raw selvedge denim, which is renowned for its durability. At the flagship store in Daikanyama, you can shop the entire collection including jeans for men and women as well as T-shirts, shirts, knitwear and even eyewear.

Japan began sewing up the high-end denim market with the late 1980s rise of the ‘Osaka Five’, a clutch of Kansai-based labels that revived techniques elsewhere abandoned in favour of mass production. One of the prominent members of this bunch was Studio d’ Artisan.

You can explore the brand's range at this Harajuku store. Studio d' Artisan is famous for using a process known as ‘hank dyeing’, which takes many days to complete,  but creates a deeper hue than other methods while retaining the cotton’s natural softness.

A browse through this store will reveal a stocked collection of good quality denim, leather and other cosy wardrobe staples. From worn-in T-shirts and heathered grey sweats to vintage-inspired souvenir jackets and military bombers, there’s no shortage of fine fashion staples at this urban cool dealer. 

But it's denim that really makes this store standout. The Real McCoy’s denim replicates styles from the 1930s, 50s and 70s using a vintage loom to weave the fabric. These jeans also feature a natural slub that showcases tiny tufts of white yarn on the surface of the fabric.

This Ebisu shop goes to great lengths in recreating vintage garments. It researches traditional threads and production techniques to turn out products that are practically indistinguishable from real vintage items.

The focus here is more on experimentation than trends – something that tends to attract denim enthusiasts. Look out for Warehouse Ebisu's classic ‘1001XX’ line, which is based on the design and colour calibration of actual 1950s items.

The Kapital brand hails from Japan's denim birthplace of Kojima in Okayama and is best known for its exclusive use of manual processes. All of its techniques – from thread-dyeing, material production and sewing to washes and decoration – have been developed and produced in-house.

Classic items and collection lines are both available at this Ebisu store, with the latter created to match seasonal themes. Items for every occasion can be found here, be it summer festival wear or everyday pieces.

Another outpost of the Kapital brand, this shop focuses on manual craftsmanship, jeans and skirts. Its signature denim piece is the ‘TH Zipang Real Indigo’ model, which comes packaged in a paulownia wood box. Woven using an old-style loom, these jeans are made with original selvage denim and designed with a thick waist in a relaxed-fit, straight cut.

The ‘Century Denim’ is another highlight, as these jeans are made with the aim of lasting a full 100 years. The fabric is dyed with a blend of natural Japanese persimmon, inks and other dyes, with quilting also added. The shop offers hemming and repairs to meet the specific needs of individual customers.