Kiyo in Kyoto
Photo: Netflix The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House
Photo: Netflix

Where to eat the Japanese food featured in the Netflix series 'The Makanai' in Tokyo

These are the best speciality restaurants in Tokyo for the mouth-watering food from the hit Netflix show

Emma Steen
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Skilled in traditional Japanese art forms including ikebana (flower arranging), dance and the tea ceremony, the geiko and maiko (apprentice geiko) of Kyoto possess all the hallmarks of Japan’s bygone days. Their world is one that is rarely open to outsiders, but in Hirokazu Kore-eda’s new Netflix series, ‘The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House’, viewers across the globe are given a glimpse of what life looks like in the maiko houses of the Gion district. 

Adapted from the hit manga ‘Kiyo in Kyoto’, ‘The Makanai’ follows two teenage friends called Kiyo (Nana Mori) and Sumire (Natsuki Deguchi) as they set out on a long journey from their hometown in Aomori to begin formal maiko training in Kyoto. While Sumire appears to thrive in her dance and music lessons, Kiyo is frequently scolded for her inability to keep up with the rest of the class. 

It’s only when Kiyo begins making plans to leave the maiko house and resume high school in Aomori that she discovers her true calling: cooking. In this guide, we’ll cover all the mouth-watering dishes featured in the episodes and where you can order them in Tokyo. 

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Eat like a maiko

  • Jinbocho
  • price 2 of 4

Where: Bondy 

At the end of the first episode, Kiyo prepares a classic Japanese curry – one of the ultimate comfort dishes in Japan. Made with a mild roux and stewed with large chunks of vegetables, the curry is always served over a bed of white rice and with fukujinzuke pickles. 

Curry shops are ubiquitous in Tokyo, but there’s something about Bondy that perfectly demonstrates everything that defines an old-school Japanese curry house. With its Showa era (1926-1989) interior and roux that resembles a European stew of sorts, this hole-in-the-wall establishment in the literary district of Jimbocho almost always has a queue during lunchtime on weekdays.

  • Japanese
  • Iidabashi
  • price 2 of 4

Where: Torijaya Bettei

The first dish Kiyo ever makes for her housemates is a simple oyakodon – a wholesome bowl of chicken and egg over rice. The dish is more homely than the catered bento boxes that her maiko sisters are used to, but that’s precisely why they appreciate Kiyo’s cooking so much. 

At this refined restaurant found along the nostalgic, cobbled streets of Kagurazaka, you can sample this quintessential egg dish for ¥1,100 at lunchtime. The bowl packs a hearty protein punch with free range chicken from Shizuoka and antibiotic-free eggs. The nori seaweed hidden underneath the egg and dashi concoction adds a nice savoury touch, while the lacquerware and ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) interior transports diners to a pre-digital, golden era of kimonos and Nihon-buyo (traditonal dance).

It’s also worth noting that this is one of the few restaurants in Tokyo where you could come face to face with a real life maiko, as Torijaya has a special relationship with a local geisha association. Booking a performances for a private banquet will likely set you back six figures (in yen, that is), but those who are willing to splurge on a special occasion can direct their enquiries to the restaurant.

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  • Shibuya

Where: Toridosi 

There's nothing quite like biting into a juicy, piping hot piece of karaage (Japanese fried chicken) after a long day of work, as Sumire does at the end of episode five. Marinated in soy sauce, ginger and garlic before being fried to a perfect golden brown, karaage is the quintessential Japanese guilty-pleasure snack.

This meaty staple is offered at just about every self-respecting izakaya (Japanese pub), but if we had to pick one place to order it, we would head to Toridosi. This modern izakaya in Shibuya specialises in chicken dishes (karaage ¥572) and fresh fruit sour cocktails, which makes it an ideal spot for a quick bite on a Friday night. 

  • Shopping
  • Nakameguro

Where: Daiwa Nakameguro

One of the first things that catches Kiyo’s attention about the eating habits of her fellow maiko is that they cut their sandwiches into unusually small pieces so as not to smudge their lipstick. Sandwiches become a bit of a theme after this moment and Sumire even makes a special request that Kiyo make sandwiches for her when she officially becomes a maiko.

At the famed fruit sandwich shop Daiwa, you can order fruit sandwiches that are as artful as the ones Kiyo makes in the show. All you have to do to give them that authentic touch is cut them into smaller, daintier portions.

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  • Japanese
  • Nihonbashi
Episode 8: Tonjiru
Episode 8: Tonjiru

Where: Hatsufuji 

Tonjiru is like a richer, heartier version of miso soup simmered with thinly sliced pork belly, burdock root and chewy chunks of konjac. It’s often served as a side dish, but is also delicious on it’s own for any meal of the day. 

At Tokyo Station breakfast institution Hatsufuji, you can order seven breakfast set meals (teishoku) including tonjiru, shioyakizakana (salt-grilled fish) and beef simmered with tofu. Optional extras include tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette), cold tofu, natto and fried eggs. All dishes come with a bowl of rice, miso soup and pickles.

The interior offers a quaint mom-and-pop vibe. The large communal table in the centre is always buzzing, but there are private booths as well. To find it in the labyrinthine of Tokyo Station, take the Yaesu central exit, head for the Sotobori Chika 3rd Street, and you’ll see the restaurant by exit 19 opposite a FamilyMart.

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