13 best retro Japanese coffee shops in Tokyo

Coffee Hall Kugutsusou has been a staple in the Kichijoji neighbourhood since 1979, when it was established by the staff of a puppet theatre troupe. Its entrance, a small botanical mesh archway, is easily overlooked unless you're searching for it. Descend the stairs, however, and you'll find yourself in a warmly lit, cave-like space that evokes the feel of a wine cellar.

The café specialises in hand-poured coffee, using French-roasted beans aged for at least two years to reduce their acidity while enhancing their deep, rich flavour. The menu features two variations of the classic kissaten dish, curry rice. The Kugutsubo Curry (¥1,250) offers a thick European-style roux paired with rice infused with sweet, fruity raisins, balancing the umami-rich gravy. Alternatively, the Om Curry (¥1,250) combines a coconut-based curry with fluffy scrambled eggs and rice. This secluded retreat offers a respite from the bustling world above, slowing down time and providing a serene escape.

When the long-standing kissaten Aoyama Chakan closed its doors after 48 years on Aoyama-dori, a devoted regular seized the opportunity to reinvent the space. This café, which opened in 2020, underwent stylish renovations to attract a younger clientele while preserving the original brick walls and artisanal woodwork that narrates its rich history.

The café boasts coffee from Shinjuku’s All Seasons Coffee, featuring original blends and house-roasted beans. Each cup is patiently hand-dripped and available in dark, medium, or light roast. The medium roast is recommended for its clean taste, enriched with the subtle sweetness of roasted almonds.

Satella’s dedication to quality extends to the food offerings as well. The cream cheese pudding, popular for its smooth texture and moreish tartness, is a standout. Enhanced with a drizzle of condensed milk, this sophisticated kissaten pudding makes an excellent companion to the coffee.

Operating an old-school kissaten like Cafe Bon in Shinjuku involves more than just offering drip-brewed coffee from house-roasted beans. This café prides itself on the quality of its ingredients, particularly those used in its signature strawberry shortcakes–a menu highlight that often sells out by early afternoon. With only 16 slices available daily, these cakes feature fresh strawberries and natural dairy cream (none of that artificial, aerated nonsense that comes from a can here!). The shortcake is delicately sweet, with a fluffy texture and subtly enhanced with an elegant strawberry liqueur as a secret touch.

The menu offers five types of coffee: Mocha, Colombian, Brazilian, Special, and Blended. Coffee is priced from roughly ¥1,400 per order, but remember that this isn’t your everyday grab-and go caffeine stand. Each order is good for about three full pours of coffee, which is served in one of the 1,500 vintage coffee cups carefully displayed behind the counter.

Upon spotting this charming old house on Yanaka's Kototoi-dori, most passers-by probably wouldn't guess that it's been home to a café for well over 70 years. Inside, you'll find a fusion of the time-honoured kissaten tradition and the newly trendy craft coffee ethos – no AeroPressing, just honestly good Joe, best combined with a pick off the wonderfully retro food menu. Try the egg sandwich for a quick bite, or the weekly lunch for a more substantial option. Kayaba is one of those places where you can lose track of time and just drift away into daydreams, no matter what's going on outside the weather-bitten windows.

While some kissaten can seem worn down and outdated, Tajimaya stands out with its impeccable attention to detail and a dedication to providing the most genuine experience. 

Six times a week, the staff sift through green coffee beans by hand, throwing out any that may compromise the flavour of the brew before the beans are roasted in-house. There’s a wide range of beans from different countries to choose from, and once you’ve made your choice, your coffee is hand-dripped through a cloth filter and served in a cup that is deemed best suited to your style.

The menu also includes a selection of cakes and sandwiches to pair with your coffee, or opt to indulge in nostalgic kissaten favourites like coffee jelly with heavy cream or buttered toast with sweet azuki (red bean) paste.

Stepping through the low, marble-tiled entrance, the first thing you’ll notice is the gorgeous tableware displayed behind a long hardwood counter. That’s not to say that the surroundings here outshine the coffee – on the contrary, Satei Hato’s hand-drip offerings maintain the absolutely highest quality. Choose from up to eight varieties of charcoal-roasted beans and watch as the formally dressed staff prepare your treat with almost religious dedication. At ¥900 and up, the coffee here doesn’t exactly allow for everyday consumption, but any true enthusiast will do well to visit Satei Hato at least once.

'Coffee Only' reads the sign outside Café de l'Ambre, which has been keeping the Ginza hordes well caffeinated since 1948. The kissaten was founded by the late Ichiro Sekiguchi, and the staff on-hand continue to run the shop under his legacy. Though they treat their coffee with the utmost seriousness, this isn't one of those fussy, killjoy coffee temples where conversation has to be conducted in furtive whispers and customers need a secret handshake to get through the door (we exaggerate, but only slightly).

Take your pick between a lone blend coffee and 30-odd single origin varieties, including a good number of aged coffees. The air of accessibility extends to English-language menus, and practically demands that you order something odd.

How about some coffee, cake and a ticket back to the Tokyo of 1977? Galant, a kissaten in Ueno, hasn’t changed a bit during its 46 years of business, and while its furniture and interiors – including the garish lamps and pink telephone in the corner – show their age, they also serve as charming reminders of a bygone era. The dessert selection is equally retro, with the delicious but less-than-photogenic chocolate parfait harking back to the good old days before Instagram. 

Opened in 1980, Trois Chambres feels a world away from the busy streets of Shimokitazawa. Antique cups line the shelves, regulars strike up conversation over the counter and the corner tables are practically always occupied by someone reading a book – time truly appears to stand still at this kissaten, which might even feel a little intimidating for first-timers. But fear not: the fellow running the show here is friendly and subtle, the cheesecakes (both rare and baked) are heavenly and coffee comes with a free refill.

Not all kissaten in Tokyo are worth the moniker, but this one in Nishi-Ogikubo sure makes the grade: stained-glass windows, antique clocks and the soft jazz soundtrack make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Founded in 1975, Monozuki offers a very simple menu – black coffee is the main attraction – but is beloved by both locals and former Nishi-Ogi-ites who come here to savour the flavours of a bygone era.

This time-worn kissaten oozes with Showa-era vibes. From the fake food displays out front to the retro interiors, Parlor Kimuraya is exactly what you’d expect from a classic Tokyo kissaten. Having been around for over 30 years, the café has a particular charm that can't be replicated at any modern coffee shop or café. It really feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. 

The menu offers all the classic kissaten staples including napolitan pasta (ketchup spaghetti), chicken rice topped with a blanket of egg, and pizza toast. There’s also a handful of colourful desserts such as kakigori shaved ice, pudding, anmitsu (agar jelly with fruit) and banana sundaes.

All the beans are roasted on the premises of this dedicated coffee specialist in suburban Minami-Senju in northern Tokyo. Café Bach also happened to supply the coffee for the G8 summit that took place in Okinawa in 2000, a meeting that is commemorated on the Japanese ¥2,000 note. You'll be in safe hands here as this kissaten has been hand-dripping its coffee with the same precision since it opened for business back in 1968.

If you want to fully experience the Japanese way of drinking joe, head straight for Sumida Coffee. Instead of serving its power-packed roast in ceramic mugs, these guys use Edo Kiriko cups, honouring the traditional, Tokyo-born form of glass manufacturing and decoration.

Typically only associated with cold drinks, the Edo Kiriko ware here was made to order by a master of the craft and can't be found anywhere else. There are 11 different cup designs, and the owner pairs each one with a customer based on his impression of the person in question. If you like the one he picks for you, consider buying a cup with the same design as a souvenir.