Kanagari
Photo: Kanagari Kanagari
Photo: Kanagari

5 best Japanese charcoal-grill restaurants in Tokyo

Some of the best meals in Tokyo this winter are slow-cooked over charcoal fire at dedicated sumibiyaki restaurants

Emma Steen
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As winter wraps Tokyo in its chilly embrace, the city's heartbeat finds solace in the warm glow of izakaya, where food and camaraderie intertwine. This season, we’re focusing on five restaurants where sumibiya – the art of charcoal grilling – takes centre stage.

Sumibiya encompasses a variety of dishes from the skewered delights of yakitori (grilled skewered chicken) to the savoury slices of yakiniku (grilled beef). Here, however, we’re focusing on restaurants that embrace a slower approach to charcoal cooking, crafting an atmosphere ripe for savouring both food and conversation over hot sake.

Whether the heating device is a built-in irori hearth or a smaller, portable hibachi grill, the essence of each dish is enhanced by the unmistakable smoky undertones that only charcoal can impart – a flavour that finds its full expression in the cold of winter.

There’s no need to venture beyond the city for this rustic charm. These spots deliver the quintessential experience of huddling around a fireplace, a haven for those seeking to thaw their winter blues.

RECOMMENDED: Best omakase and tasting menus in Tokyo for under ¥10,000

All fired up

  • Japanese
  • Nishi-Shinjuku

This unpretentious izakaya in Nishi-Shinjuku is a paradise for sake lovers, with a selection of over 50 varieties from all over Japan. It has a casual and old-school atmosphere that immediately puts you at ease as you kick off your shoes and relax on tatami mats. Chef Yoshimitsu Honda oversees a menu highlighting genshiyaki, ironware-baked rice and robatayaki (skewers of meat, fish and veg are grilled over a high heat and passed to diners from over the counter).  

You can order skewers like the roasted Awaji onion (¥640) or signature dishes like the salt-grilled nodoguro (black throat sea perch, ¥4,370) a la carte, but we recommend taking advantage of the course meals. For ¥5,500, you get a selection of sashimi, assorted appetisers, grilled fish, vegetables and rice along with an all-you-can-drink deal that covers 20 types of sake served hot or cold, as well as beer, soft drinks and Shochu-based drinks. Perfect for an impromptu outing with friends, Kanagari blends the charm of traditional Japanese dining with the easy-going vibes of a neighbourhood joint.

  • Nishi-Shinjuku

Genshiyaki Hibachi is a unique, homely space that captures the essence of a cosy Japanese countryside hut. The interior is warmly lit by lanterns, highlighting an array of sake bottles that line the walls. Taking pride of place in the open kitchen is the irori, a traditional Japanese charcoal hearth, where chefs prepare genshiyaki-style grilled fish, bringing out a rich, smoky flavour. Starting at ¥6,800, the course menu offers a selection of side dishes alongside the main event: expertly grilled fish and classic clay-pot rice. 

For those looking to enhance their dining experience, the ¥11,000 option includes upgraded clay-pot rice featuring ikura and snow crab. It also comes with the generous addition of a two-and-a-half-hour all-you-can-drink package with draft beer, whiskey highballs and a variety of sake and shochu cocktails.

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  • Hiroo

From the outside, Sowado presents an inscrutable façade: a featureless concrete wall with a plain, slate-black metal sliding door, giving no hints of the culinary theatre that lies within. This enigmatic entrance is a portal to one of Tokyo's most sought-after dining experiences, but entry is exclusive to those with reservations. 

This discreet establishment is headed by Fukuoka-born chef Hideaki Sakai, who puts a contemporary spin on traditional Kyushu delicacies. The menu here is extensive and the dishes are small, so that you can easily savour the diverse array of seasonal produce alongside an eclectic selection of sake and wine.

Among the highlights is the tsukune – individual skewers of chicken meatballs that are glazed with a sweet-savoury glaze before being dipped in creamy, golden egg yolk. The sashimi assortment is also a must, with each slice of fresh fish thoughtfully paired with its ideal complement, be it a squidge of sudachi citrus or a touch of pickled plum sauce.

Specialising in genshiyaki-style seasonal fish, Sowado also boasts an impressive array of charcoal-grilled options, including succulent beef, duck, and pork dishes that vary daily. For those daunted by the breadth of choices, the omakase course is a good all-rounder, with housemade tofu, sashimi, a soup-based dish, the signature thick-cut ham cutlet and the charcoal-grilled dish of the day.

Whatever you do, leave some room for the buta kakuni clay-pot rice at the end of the meal, where the fatty richness of melt-in-your-mouth braised pork belly is brilliantly balanced with the refreshing zing of myouga ginger. For those wishing to extend their evening, a quieter bar area offers a tranquil space for post-prandial drinks, including shōchū, sake, natural wine, and more.

  • Kagurazaka

Tucked away in the quiet backstreets of Kagurazaka is a well-kept secret among those with a discerning taste for exceptional wagyu beef. Kagurazaka Nikuyorozu's interior oozes sophistication, with a sleek wooden dining counter and walls painted in a deep charcoal black, setting the stage for a memorable occasion. 

At the helm is Yosuke Ikeda, a chef whose career began at the age of 17. He honed his craft in prestigious yakiniku establishments throughout Jiyugaoka, Ginza and Nishiazabu, leading to his current position where his expertise and vision come to life. 

Kagurazaka Nikuyorozu dedicates itself to the art of charcoal-grilled wagyu, offering a sensory exploration of Japan's most prized beef. Courses start at ¥7,000, beginning with beef sashimi and a fresh seasonal salad. Guests are then treated to an opulent beef and sea urchin roll, followed by delicately prepared shabu-shabu-style wagyu and succulently grilled lean cuts over charcoal. 

For guests who desire a bit more control over their dining adventure, the a la carte menu provides the opportunity to revisit favoured dishes or explore new ones not featured in the set course.

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  • Shibuya

Igor Cosy offers a unique blend of modern izakaya charm and the cosy ambience of a rustic French bistro. Here, you can indulge in seasonal claypot rice and rustic Euro-Japanese dishes, all beautifully presented on handmade ceramics. 

The menu features small plates, perfect for sharing, allowing you to savour a variety of flavours. Whether you're in the mood for a full dinner or just a few drinks over light snacks, this spot caters to all occasions. A selection of six or seven dishes will comfortably serve two people, with prices ranging from ¥8,000 to ¥10,000, excluding drinks. 

The restaurant takes pride in its signature clay-pot rice and slow-cooked, charcoal-grilled dishes, which are worth the wait. Begin your meal with a fresh salad of wild greens or a tempting basket of shumai dumplings crowned with sea urchin. Other highlights include sweetfish grilled genshiyaki-style, where the fish is seasoned with salt, skewered whole and cooked over embers until the meat is succulent and the skin is crisp. Alternatively, choose platters of succulent sliced chicken thighs and beef tenderloin. 

To complement your meal, Igor Cosy boasts an impressive drinks menu, featuring a selection of nihonshu (sake), natural wines and Shochu-based cocktails, including refreshing lemon or tomato sours.

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