Ramen Nagi must be doing something right. When it opened in 2004, it operated out of a rented space in a bar in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai district. Today, it has outlets in Taiwan and the Philippines, while its flagship branch is still in Shinjuku’s drinking quarter.
Key to its wild success is its incomparable broth, made by simmering over 20 varieties of small dried fish for more than half the day. The deep, complex broth is then perfectly paired with thick, curly noodles. Come here after bar-hopping in Golden Gai, or if there’s a long queue at the main restaurant, head to the nearby annex outlet, which is also open 24 hours a day.