The best onsen and sento bathhouses in Tokyo

The atmosphere of Tokyo's traditional shitamachi (downtown) area lives on at this compact onsen bathhouse, a brisk ten-minute walk from Kinshicho Station. They've managed to cram a lot into the bathing area ('cosy' would be an understatement), where the tubs range in temperature from chilly to a scalding heat that's likely to appeal most to those with skin like leather.

Up on the ninth floor of the Rakutenchi entertainment complex in Kinshicho, this 24-hour, men-only spa seems aimed mainly at office workers who've missed their last train home. There's an onsen bath and a pair of saunas, plus three relaxation rooms equipped with reclining chairs – the quietest of which comes with an optional wake-up call from the staff.

Its tiled roof and imposing entrance immediately distinguish this classic bathhouse from your average neighbourhood sento. In business since 1916, Teikoku-yu boasts one of the most beautiful buildings of any traditional bathhouse in the capital – the high ceiling, lush garden with its koi carp, and powerful Mt Fuji mural are all worth a closer look. This is far from the cleanest or most comfortable sento in the area, but it deserves a visit for its historical value alone.

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This impressive-looking spa complex was inspired by the popular Thermae Romae series of manga and movies. Open 22 hours every day, Thermae-Yu features hot spring baths and rotenburo – supplied with onsen water from Izu daily – stone saunas, a full-on beauty salon, scrub treatments and a lounge complete with a café, bar and restaurant.

Antique pictures and celebrity autographs line the walls from entrance to locker rooms and the whole place is filled with objects and souvenirs collected by the owner, making the Daikoku-yu bathhouse feel almost like a museum. There's a comfortable massage bath, cold water bath, steam bath, electric bath and sauna, while the men’s sauna features a spacious rest room with relaxation chairs.

See Mt Fuji without leaving downtown Tokyo – simply visit this old-fashioned sento, where one entire wall is given over to a mural of the mountain.

This bathhouse first opened in Ginza in 1863, during the dying days of the Edo period (1603-1867), and it hasn't made much effort to update its retro stylings since. There's an old-fashioned reception desk on the way in, and an impressive mural of Kutani porcelain tiles depicting carp, spring and autumn flowers and birds that you can enjoy while soaking in the tub. There are two baths, one pleasantly warm and the other heated to a fairly toasty 42 degrees Celsius.

A designer sento overhauled by architect Kentaro Imai, Kohmeisen reopened in 2014 in the heart of Nakameguro’s trendy shopping area. There are three baths – massage, carbonated and cold water – and a sauna. A rotenburo is available on only one side of the sento, so the men’s and women’s sides are swapped every Friday to allow everyone to experience rooftop bathing – a rare treat in central Tokyo.

There aren't many Tokyo spas with a location as convenient as this, right outside the west exit of Ogikubo Station. Only the outdoor rotenburo at Nagomi no Yu use hot-spring water, but there's a range of other baths and saunas, too. If you want to go all-out with the pampering, it's worth paying an extra ¥300 to get access to the various stone saunas and 'healing' zones, on the third and fifth floors.

Squeezed between a fitness club upstairs and a branch of Uniqlo on the ground floor, this spa complex draws hot spring water from 1,200 metres underground to supply its indoor and outdoor baths. The Spa Seijo also has a range of beauty treatments on offer, from pedicures to Ayurveda massages.

Throw off your inhibitions and bathe with the regulars at this wonderfully old-school Koenji sento featuring an impressive menu of soaking options, including a scented bath and a milk bath. If the water feels a tad hot, try concentrating on the majestic Mt Fuji murals decorating both the men's and women's sections.

A so-called 'super sento', Yukemuri no Sato is located in Chofu and features a whopping 12 different types of baths including a whirpool bath, rotenburo and Japan's first electric bath filled with carbonated spring water. Try out the popular Surga bedrock bath (at an additional cost) or relax on the heated floor while reading manga.

Sitting not far from the border with Kanagawa prefecture, this bathhouse in Zoshiki boasts a restaurant, karaoke room, massage service, relaxation chairs and small rooftop garden. If you're just looking to take a long soak, there's a range of tubs to choose from, including a rotenburo and an indoor onsen bath that uses Ota-ku's distinctive black kuroyu water.

This modern-looking bathhouse is actually the reincarnation of a 40-year-old sento that closed its doors in 2006. Reborn as Togoshi Ginza Onsen, it now has a few baths supplied with authentic hot-spring water, as well as boasting a unique wall mural that blends a traditional depiction of Mt Fuji (by veteran sento artist Morio Nakajima) with a garishly modern rendering of the same peak.

This old-school bathhouse's rare black hot spring is said to heal back pain and give you healthy skin. In addition to that quirky speciality, you can experience all kinds of baths here, from high and low temperature ones to bubble and electrical baths, while the facility also houses a sauna. Head to the second floor and enjoy karaoke while grabbing some food and drinks.

Located in a quiet residental area, this sento has been in operation since 1959, although its present incarnation is the result of much renovation and rebuilding. In spring, the main attraction is the view of the cherry blossoms, which can be admired even while you're soaking away. The dark-coloured water used is the same as at many sento in southern Tokyo, known as kuroyu.

Opened 60 years ago and recently renovated, Kugahara-yu features a majestic Mt Fuji mosaic on its bathroom walls. The men’s and women’s sides are decorated with different colour schemes (representing the moon and the sun), but you’ll get a chance to experience both as they rotate the changing rooms every two weeks. Regardless of the less than convenient location, it's usually packed with families and kids.

Sento architect Kentaro Imai’s newest creation was completed in late 2016 way out west in Machida. Aiming to stem the flow of customers leaving Okurayu for the new ’super sento’ opened nearby, the owner hired Imai to freshen up his traditional bathhouse. The architect’s response was to cut down on, well, everything – an approach that resulted in what could be Tokyo’s most minimalist onsen.

A ten-minute walk from Okutama Station on the JR Ome line, this onsen offers some welcome respite after a day spent hiking in the local mountains. The facilities include indoor and outdoor rotenburo baths, as well as a communal foot bath – though remember to bring your own towel, as it isn't included in the price.

Located on Niijima, part of the Izu island chain, this open-air bath is themed on the ruins of ancient Rome – for some inexplicable reason. Enjoy mixed bathing in six different hot springs, open around the clock and boasting grand views of the starry sky at night. Best of all, the facility is completely free for all comers. 

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