Yokohama Noge
Photo: Kisa ToyoshimaYokohama Noge
Photo: Kisa Toyoshima

7 best restaurants and bars in retro nightlife hub Yokohama Noge

Spend a night bar-hopping your way through this atmospheric nightlife district in Yokohama

Kaila Imada
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When it comes to nightlife in Tokyo, the usual suspects like Roppongi, Shibuya and Shinjuku’s Golden Gai are always part of the conversation. These are all great places for a drink, of course, but if you’re looking to switch things up, there’s another contender to consider. Hop on a train at Tokyo Station, and just over 30 minutes later you'll be at Yokohama Noge.

A short walk from Sakuragicho Station, this old-school nightlife hub is packed with snack bars, izakaya pubs and restaurants. It’s been a popular drinking district since the post-war US occupation of Yokohama Port and continues to flourish to this day. The atmospheric backstreets have been left mostly untouched since those post-war days and you really feel that retro vibe when walking around. What’s more, eating and drinking here is a lot more affordable than in central Tokyo. 

In between all the restaurants and bars you’ll find some long-standing institutions like Miyakobashi Shotengai, a two-storey building packed with dozens of tiny bars and restaurants. There's also Tabemono Yokocho, an indoor alleyway with even more hotspots to check out.

Intrigued? Read on for some of our favourite venues in this bustling nightlife district.

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A night out in Yokohama

  • Yokohama

Wine and kushiage (deep-fried skewers) may not be the most obvious combination, but that’s exactly what you get at Hachi. This somewhat modern joint stands out compared to its more traditional neighbours, but it makes for a good start before heading across the street to explore the bars of Miyakobashi Shotengai

Before tucking into the kushiage, we recommend starting with a plate of carpaccio made from the fish of the day – a nice reminder of Noge’s proximity to the sea. As for the kushiage, you can go for an omakase set of five or pick out your favourites a la carte. Some of our top picks include the nodoguro (rosy seabass), mentaiko mochi, shiitake mushroom with prosciutto, and the truffle croquette. 

Finally, don’t forget to venture into Hachi's wine menu. If you’re feeling indecisive, we recommend the tasting set with three types of wine for just ¥580.

  • Sushi
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Tucked away inside the charming Tabemono Yokocho is this reasonable seafood joint best known for its sushi. You can grab a quick and casual meal on the first floor with its standing counters, or head up to the cosy second floor loft to dine at floor tables on tatami mats.

Make your order from the tablet at the table, similar to the ones at conveyor belt sushi joints. There are a lot of enticing options on the menu, but you won't be disappointed with the omakase sashimi platter with fresh seafood brought in daily from Yokohama Central Market.

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This restaurant chain is so popular that it has two restaurants in the neighbourhood. At its Noge Horumon Center venue, as the name suggests, you can feast on horumon (offal) that you cook on the tabletop grill. It’s mostly counter seating here, but grab one of the two outdoor tables if you can for a spot of people-watching as you grill your meat.

Unsure where to start with horumon? Then go for the mix plate with six to seven different types of offal for grilling. To add a kick to your meal, get the meibutsu perapera yaki (pork intestines served with spicy chives). 

But it’s not all about food, as you’ll see from the extremely reasonable drinks menu. Highballs (whisky and soda water) are just ¥50 a pop, and only ¥90 for the mega supersized version.

  • Yokohama

Chinese restaurant Gyoza Suiyo has a few locations around Yokohama, including this two-storey shop in Noge. It uses only Japanese pork belly and vegetables in its gyoza, and makes the gyoza skin in-house. The result is flavourful, juicy dumplings that only cost ¥350 for six (pssst, visit on Monday nights and plates of gyoza are half price).

You can also fill up on the likes of fried rice, noodles and soup. The drinks menu lets you keep the Chinese theme going with Shaoxing wine available alongside the usual tipples.

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This is the place to come if you’re craving some satisfying carbs after a night of bar-hopping. Maruki specialises in yakisoba, but raises this basic fried noodle dish above the norm with some inventive twists.

A must-order is the house special, which is topped with slices of pork belly, nori seaweed, gari (pickled ginger) and a fried egg. Look out for the riffs on classic fried noodles such as yakisoba rolled up in an omelette, pork and green onion yakisoba, and a stamina yakisoba packed with extra meat and topped with raw egg yolk.

You can even customise the yakisoba, starting with a base for ¥500 before piling on your choice of toppings.

  • Yokohama

This lively standing bar in Yokohama Noge specialises in fresh seafood like sashimi paired with sake. Seafood is sourced from nearby ports and the nihonshu is selected by a sommelier to pair with the food on offer. If you’re not sure where to start, order up one of the signature plates like the gokai san-ten mori, which includes maki rolls topped with uni (sea urchin roe), ikura (salmon roe) and chutoro (medium fatty tuna). 

But it’s not all about seafood at Goen. It also operates a nearby eatery in the Noge neighbourhood that specialises in motsuyaki (grilled offal).

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Amid the array of izakaya in Noge, late-night dessert spot Café Basil is a welcome sight. It’s standing only here, so perch yourself at the counter and order up a fresh Belgian or American waffle.

It doesn’t get much more satisfying than pairing an apple cinnamon or camembert cheese Belgian waffle with an Irish coffee or hot wine. The decadent American-style waffles, on the other hand, are served like wraps and stuffed with tasty fillings such as banana and Brazil nut cream, and tiramisu.

Don’t have a sweet tooth? Not to worry as there are savoury options like ham and cheese, too.

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