The ultimate guide to Geylang

Sin Huat has made a name for itself among local and international foodies; the late Anthony Bourdain claimed to visit "at least once" whenever he was in Singapore. What’s so special about this place? It certainly isn’t the decor (standard coffee-shop plastic). Or the setting (on Geylang’s ‘busy’ streets). And it isn’t the service (waiting times sometimes stretch to hours). What’s so special is the popular Sri Lankan crab bee hoon (prepared one dish at a time) – think juicy Chinese escargots accompanied by an addictive chilli dip; and meaty prawns steamed with garlic and chilli.

We all know Swee Choon is the go-to for late-night dim sum but 126 Dim Sum has an edge over its biggest competitor ‘cos of its round-the-clock operating hours. It peddles more than a 100 different types of dim sum, running from staples like siew mai and har gao to more interesting bites such as braised duck wings and pork belly yam rolls.

In 2018, Eminent Frog Porridge received the Michelin Bib Gourmand award. And it rightfully deserves it for its signature bowl of porridge served with chunks of flavoured frog legs. Choose your piping hot bowl – the spicy option where the frog legs are cooked in dried chili and soy sauce or the mild option where chilies are substituted with ginger and spring onions.

Dreaming of frog leg porridge in the middle of the night? Get those late-night cravings sorted at this restaurant in Geylang. From $8, you can choose between the dry chilli bullfrog or the ginger spring onion bullfrog. If you're not keen on the frog, opt for other seafood dishes such as fried prawns with salted egg and cereal, black pepper and butter crab.

Also known as Geylang Famous Beef Kway Teow, this popular restaurant is the place to be for comfort local food – we're talking hot plates of beef horfun (from $7) smothered in flavourful soy sauce and topped with tender beef slices. It's addictive rendition even earned it a Michelin plate from the Singapore Michelin Guide.  

A late arrival may earn you a stern rebuke from the harried maître d’, but you will forgive him when the food arrives: perfectly steamed fish, tangles of kang kong fried with dried prawns or astonishing sambal. But the restaurant (one of four in town) makes its name with crabs, including the iconic black pepper and chili varieties.

When that late-night craving for fried dim sum hits, Mongkok Dim Sum has got you covered. Open 24 hours every day, this popular dim sum joint makes an ace supper spot. Order up favourites like its signature prawn dumpling, the custard bun, and the Shanghai pork dumpling – all for less than $5. Add on the three-yolk crab porridge which makes an excellent choice to share among your four buds.

Put on your cowboy boots and tilt your hat as you make your way through the doors of this casual restaurant-slash-wine-bar. Dig into a variety of Western nosh, whipped up to perfection with its best-kept recipes and homemade sauces. Order up the classics such as fish and chips ($13.90), lamb chop ($17.90), grilled chicken ($13.90), sirloin steak ($24.90), and carbonara ($12.90) for an Italian twist. For after, treat yourself to sweet, sweet hotcakes ($6.90).

Far from the sorry selection of your school canteen, The Tuckshop serves café fare by day and craft beer by night. (Even if you want booze in the afternoon, we – and The Tuckshop – don’t judge.) With over 40 types of bottled beers (from $14), the owners are serious about their hops. And the tasting notes they’ve written in the menu will help even the most novice of drinkers decide on the right beverage. Grab a cold one before planting yourself in the al fresco area to watch the traffic zoom by.

Ah, the king of fruits. Geylang, the city’s infamous red light district, is home to plenty of roadside stalls hawking durians– but with plenty of crooks looking to swindle you out of a quick buck, it’s best to stick to places that have built up a solid reputation like Fruits Top 1 Department Store.

Need a new Christmas tree this festive season? Easily spotted by its brightly lit façade decked with a red banner that screams "Henry Christmas Wholesaler", the Geylang Road shop transforms into a Winter Wonderland complete with fake snow but real Christmas cheer from October to December. During this period, you can find everything including trees, garlands, crackers, baubles, nativity set, and even Santa suits at wallet-friendly prices – think four-feet tall trees from $25, and decorations at less than $10.

Wet-plate photography is a historical image-making technique that was invented some 150 years ago. Now, a Singaporean photographer wants to bring this process back to life. Hip Xiong Photo Studio, founded by Ryan Lee, is the only one in Singapore that shoots using a 19th century-style tinplate process. “It’s sort of like the Poloroid of the 1850s,” says Ryan. Even the space itself, located within a two-storey shophouse in Geylang, captures the same old-school charm. Wood-panelled walls and mid-century furniture pieces were deliberately chosen to recreate the photo studios of yesteryears. The final product, too, is nothing short of magical: a stunning keepsake that’s suspended in silver, and time.

Pre-loved tops, bottoms, outerwear, shoes (some with tags still attached) from high street stores and local labels such as Topshop, ZARA, and Love, Bonito are sold at a fraction of their retail prices, starting from $5. If your wardrobe’s spilling with unwanted clothes, consider selling them within this space, where you pay a $20 registration fee, and a weekly rental of $40 to sell up to 100 pieces of clothing to fellow bargain hunters in store. 

It's no surprise that you'll find adult toy shops in the red light district. With over 12,000 fun playthings including vibrators, dildos, strap-on kits, male masturbators, anal toys, BDSM gear and inflatable toys, Love is Love is definitely one for those who like to get frisky in bed. The store may sound intimidating, but don't sweat – the friendly and knowledgable staff will hook you up with the best product based on your preference.