The ultimate guide to Paya Lebar and Geylang Serai

The newest addition to Paya Lebar Quarter, PLQ Parkside, amps it up with an urban outdoor dining concept. Fringed by nature and carefully integrated into the surrounding park connector network, it's the perfect place for outdoor sports enthusiasts and families to wind down after an adventurous day out. Tantalising food options include three new dining concepts: Killiney Bistro for a modern twist on traditional favourites, Rempapa for heritage recipes cooked up by MasterChef Singapore judge Damian D'Silva and Zing by Xi Yan for Asian-fusion fare. 

Whether you're down Geylang Serai for a bit of grocery shopping at its massive wet market, making a pit stop at Haig Road Market & Food Centre for a bite or two is an absolute must. Just a stone's throw away from Geylang Serai Market, the hawker centre is the largest in the area, and boasts a plethora of stalls offering menus ranging from Indian, Malay and Chinese fare to Western delights and fusion food. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Traditional Haig Road Putu Piring (as featured in Netflix's Street Food) where the stall is popular for its gula Melaka-filled steamed rice flour cakes topped with grated coconut.

Located between the bustling thoroughfares of Changi Road and Sims Avenue, the Geylang Serai Market has been a focal point for the local Malay community since it was built in 1964. The airy 955-seater Geylang Serai food centre sits on the second floor, sharing the enclosed 9,000 sq ft floor space with a wet market and a battery of shops laden with clothing, groceries, household goods and other bric-a-brac. The market is also home to not one but two legendary nasi padang rice stalls – both with a highly distinctive style – Hajjah Mona Nasi Padang (Stall 166), and Sinar Pagi Nasi Padang (Stall 137).

The queue at this nasi padang restaurant stretches out the door even before lunchtime hits. We can’t blame the crowd, though, as only the early birds get the worm. Or in this case, stellar beef rendang and sambal goreng. There are only limited quantities of each item, so hot favourites like the tauhu telor sell out fast. Aside from quintessential Malay dishes, there are also rarer ones like lemak siput sedut, or sea snails swimming in a coconut-rich broth. And be sure to scream ‘yes’ when asked if you’d like a dollop of sambal with your rice. 

The family business has been making popiah skins the traditional way – from scratch, by hand – since 1938. The halal-certified shop was mainly known for popiah skins before going with the full shebang – the result is a warm, chewy bite with ingredients such as egg, prawn, and sweet and savoury sauces. It also offers kueh pie tie, sweet black sauce, and other ingredients to DIY your own popiah. It’s also one of the few places where you can watch the chefs twirl the dough to create these delicate but resilient layers.

With earthy tones and lush plants decorating every corner, it's no wonder that Knots Café & Living is a winner with couples looking for a solemnisation venue. On regular days, it's a tranquil nature-inspired spot for a coffee and meal. The café serves up classic brunch fare and Western meals, such as the Knots Waffle Brekkie ($26.15), chicken chop ($19.70), mushroom and bacon aglio olio ($19.10), and 10" pizzas. The café also doubles up as a lifestyle store – you can feel free to buy home any of the plants or furniture that catches your eye while you're there.

If you don't mind a 10-minute walk for some plant-based grub, make your way to this vegan burger joint in Eunos. Deemed as the world’s first plant-based burger joint, VeganBurg does sound scary for dedicated carnivores, and checking into Veganburg’s cosy yet playful interiors (think grass carpeted dining stools and a walled bicycle) may either intimidate or challenge you. Start off with the best-selling Avacado Beetroot ($11.90) which comes with GMO-free crispy plant-protein patty, creamy vegan aioli, and wholemeal buns. For something spicy, opt the Chilli Krab ($11.90) which is topped with homemade chili "crab" sauce made from handcrafted rempah with a blend of chillis and ginger.

Far from the sorry selection of your school canteen, The Tuckshop serves café fare by day and craft beer by night. (Even if you want booze in the afternoon, we – and The Tuckshop – don’t judge.) With over 40 types of bottled beers (from $14), the owners are serious about their hops. And the tasting notes they’ve written in the menu will help even the most novice of drinkers decide on the right beverage. Grab a cold one before planting yourself in the al fresco area to watch the traffic zoom by.

It's always tipsy hour at Tipsy Penguin's sister outlet. Aptly named Tipsy Bird, this chic gastrobar in Paya Lebar covers all the essentials like booze, bites, beats, and sometimes live football screenings. Unwind over pints of Hite Beer or Frosty's Lager ($10), or a glass of its signature Tipsy Old Fashioned ($17), a strong cocktail with a tinge of sweetness finished with fried orange peel. You can also choose your poison from a selection of red and white wines, champagnes, and sangrias. There are also non-boozy options, ranging from coffees and teas to juices and mocktails. If you're feeling peckish, it serves up all-day breakfast, salads, quinoa bowls, burgers, steaks, and even local claypot dishes.

Chi Cha San Chen is serious about its tea, and it shows – its signature brews have been handcrafted by Taiwanese tea masters with over two decades of experience in growing, roasting, and tasting tea. Its standard bubble milk tea ($4.20) is made with a black tea base and cream, but the highlight is undeniably the award-winning Ding Dong Oolong milk tea ($4.70) which we daresay is one of the best in Singapore. Other options include a refreshing High Mountain Pouchong tea with lemon juice ($4.20), and the Cassia black tea with mousse ($4.70). 

The addition of Paya Lebar Quarter has added considerable buzz to this neighbourhood. Located above Paya Lebar MRT station, the mall forms a convenient triangle with Paya Lebar Square and SingPost Centre. Shop at usual suspects like Don Don Donki, Uniqlo or Hands; indulge in trendy eats at Eat Pizza, Fluff Stack, and Chimichanga; or catch a movie at Shaw Theatres PLQ. The outdoor plaza has greenery and ample seating too, perfect if you need a few moments to rest tired feet or chow down on snacks. 

Juxtaposed beside old shopping centres like Tanjong Katong Complex and City Plaza are Paya Lebar's spankin' new malls including Paya Lebar Quarter and Kinex. Previously known as OneKM Shopping Mall, the community-centric Kinex prides itself as a fun destination for those leading (or kickstarting) an active, vibrant lifestyle. Unleash your inner Picasso at Tree Art, throw shapes at Distinct Creative Arts, update your wardrobe with pre-loved threads, discover your next favourite local brand at Excluniqueee, and snap a selfie at the staircase at the entrance that’s bathed in colourful graphics.

Bake King is a perennial fixture in the baking aisle of almost every supermarket, but did you know that the brand has its very own brick and mortar store? Furthermore, the range available in the outlet extends beyond just bottles of food colouring, baking additivities and packets of dried fruits and nuts. There, you’ll find everything you need for your patisserie endeavours (and lockdown baking), including cake moulds and stands and uncommon ingredients such as dried rose petals and charcoal powder.

Situated on the shopping stretch at Geylang Serai, this shopping mall is a bargain hunter's haven for pre-loved fashion. Check out Whitefiction, Refash and PEONY Collection for pre-loved clothing and fashion finds for $10 or less. Make a pit stop at Arnold's Fried Chicken for spicy, golden-brown crispy chicken, before continuing your search for your next #OOTD. Check out our roundup the best shops in City Plaza.

Since the 1960s, Joo Chiat Complex has been an important trading point for Malay, Indian, and Chinese merchants in Singapore. It's one of the best places to cop quality wares from traditional craftwork and art pieces to jewellery, ethnic clothing and fabric. And if you've got great bargaining skills, you might even get them without the hefty price tag. One of the malls long-time residents is H Hashim Bin H Abdullah. A household name in Geylang Serai since 1922, it's one of the oldest bookstores in Singapore and has been the go-to shop for Malay and Islamic books.

Temporarily closed for renovations

Whether you need a new baju kurung or fabrics to make your very own design, Tanjong Katong Complex has you covered. The old shopping space is known for its wide array of traditional Malay clothing and textiles, as well as furniture stores and interior design agencies. One of its popular tenants First Lady sits on the second floor, carrying women's fashion such as baju kurung, jubah, and hijab. There's even more variety during Ramadan, leading up to Hari Raya Aidilfitri. However, like most old shopping centres, its fate remains uncertain as its lease expires in 2022, so catch it in its unique, charming glory before it's too late.