La Pergola

Heinz Beck is, without a doubt, the most talented chef in Rome, with three – merited – Michelin stars. His technical dexterity and unerring instinct for taste and texture combinations never fail to impress. The setting for La Pergola, on the top floor of the Cavalieri hotel with its panoramic view over the city, is simply breathtaking. But what emerges from Beck’s kitchen – every dish dictated by seasonal availability – is equally so: amberjack tartare with tomato mousse and olives, potato gnocchi with caviar and chives or sea bass with olive oil-marinated vegetables are infinitely more sophisticated than they sound. The remarkable cellars are said to hold 53,000 bottles; markups on wine are very steep. But around €350 for two with a good bottle still compares favourably with restaurants at the top of the gourmet ladder in other capitals.