Caffè Sant’Eustachio

This is one of the city’s most famous coffee bars, and its walls are plastered with celebrity testimonials. The coffee is quite extraordinary, if pricier than elsewhere; the barmen turn their backs while whipping up a cup so as not to let their secret out (though a pinch of bicarbonate of soda is rumoured to give it its froth). Try the gran caffè: the schiuma (froth) can be slurped out with a spoon or finger afterwards. Unless you specify (amaro means ‘no sugar’; poco zucchero means ‘a little sugar’), it comes very sweet.