Da Cesare
Photograph: Da Cesare
Photograph: Da Cesare

The 10 best pastas in Rome (and where to eat them)

Our ultimate guide to the very best spots for carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe and more

Livia Hengel
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We all know Italy is a land renowned for its carbohydrates. Pizza, pasta and panini are ubiquitous in cities from the north to the south. In fact, did you know there are over 100 different types of pasta shapes throughout the country? That’s right. One hundred. 

So sure, it would take a lifetime to track them all down, but if you’re on a quick trip to the Eternal City and looking to try a few delicious pasta dishes, look no further: we’ve got the 10 best, right here. From creamy carbonara and fragrant amatriciana to peppery cacio e pepe, each recipe reflects this city’s rich culinary history and skillful cooking. Read on to discover the best pastas in Rome, and exactly where to find them.

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Livia Hengel is an Italian-American writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines

The best pasta in Rome

1. Carbonara at Luciano Cucina Italiana

What’s the deal? When it comes to pasta in Rome, there’s nowhere else to start but carbonara, one of our most beloved dishes. A decadent dish made with egg yolk, pecorino romano, crispy guanciale (fatty pork cheek) and freshly cracked black pepper, this is a winner every time. Trust me, you haven’t tried carbonara until you’ve tried it in Rome. 

Where to eat it: You’ll find the best rendition of this pasta at Luciano Cucina Italiana, a contemporary trattoria just steps from Campo de’ Fiori. Luciano, known as the ‘King of Carbonara’, has elevated this culinary staple into an elegant dish, served with a golden fork. Here it’s made with spaghettoni (thick spaghetti) and is a vibrant yellow, perfect for pairing with one of Rome’s full-bodied red wines.

2. Amatriciana at Romanè

What’s the deal? Amatriciana is another famous Roman pasta and one you can’t miss in the city. In this recipe, a rich tomato sauce is infused with crispy guanciale, a splash of white wine and a generous sprinkle of pecorino romano. It’s hearty, savoury and full of flavour, and gives you a little break from all the cream and cheese. 

Where to eat it: Stefano Callegari, one of Rome’s leading pizza makers, is best known for introducing Trapizzino (stuffed pizza pockets) to the world, but his talents extend into the realm of pasta, too. You’ll find his Roman trattoria Romanè behind the Vatican (and on the Michelin guide), and it’s the perfect spot to try the delicacy, surrounded by flowers on the restaurant’s roadside courtyard. 

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3. Cacio e Pepe at Lo’Steria

What’s the deal? A grown-up version of macaroni and cheese, cacio e pepe is another legendary Roman dish. Made with pecorino and a serious amount of cracked black pepper, this pasta is deceptively simple but enduringly satisfying. You’ll find this dish in trattorias across the city, and even adapted in pizzerias and incorporated into street foods, like supplì (rice balls).

Where to eat it: Head away from the crowds of the historic centre and enjoy an incredibly creamy bowl of tonnarelli cacio e pepe at Lo’Steria in Ponte Milvio. This buzzing local neighborhood joint in northern Rome is close to the Olympic Stadium and the MAXXI Museum of 21st century art, making it the perfect pit stop after a morning of sightseeing. 

4. Gricia at Cesare al Casaletto

What’s the deal? The fourth pasta in Rome’s ‘pasta quartet’ is gricia, a pasta that’s often overlooked but well worth trying while you’re in the city. This recipe uses guanciale and pecorino (no tomato, and no egg, which is where it differs from carbonara). The result is a silky, salty and satisfying sauce, a little lighter than its egg counterpart. 

Where to eat it: Regarded as one of the best restaurants in Rome, Cesare al Casaletto excels at all Roman classics, and the gricia here is spectacular. Here you’ll find it with with ribbed rigatoni noodles, which scoops up that fabulous sauce and add texture to the dish. Finish, always, with cracked black pepper. 

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5. Fettucine Alfredo at Alfredo alla Scrofa

What’s the deal? Widely available on menus throughout the world but notoriously absent on menus in Italy, many assume that Fettucine Alfredo is a foreign recipe devised to emulate Italian cuisine. But the truth is that Fettucine Alfredo was actually invented in Rome in the early 1900s. A simple comfort food made with only three ingredients  soft fettucine noodles, butter and Parmigiano Reggiano  the original version never features chicken, seafood or cream. Ever. 

Where to eat it: In Rome, you’ll only find Fettucine Alfredo at one spot: the charming Alfredo alla Scrofa, where the dish was first born. A historic, upscale eatery near Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, it has an elegant wood-paneled interior and plenty of outdoor tables for dining al fresco. Order the fettucine and be prepared for a show; the waiters are adept at tossing the silky noodles right at your table.

6. Arrabbiata at Trattoria Da Teo

What’s the deal? A well-loved dish usually enjoyed at home, penne all’arrabbiata can be tricky to find at restaurants in Italy. And it’s a shame, as nothing hits the spot quite like this spicy sauce made with tomato and pepperoncino when you fancy something with a kick.   

Where to eat it: A great place to order this dish is Trattoria Da Teoone of the best trattorias in the city. Nestled in a pretty piazza in Trastevere, Da Teo has an ample menu with delicious appetisers, meats and plenty of seafood, but I always go for the pasta. The penne all’arrabbiata here is chewy, savoury and spicy, and the portion sizes make it all the more worthwhile. 

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7. Spaghetti alle Vongole at Osteria Der Belli

What’s the deal? Just a 30-minute drive from the seaside, Romans grow up enjoying seafood of all kinds. Spaghetti alle vongole is a particularly popular dish, featuring baby clams and a simple white wine and garlic sauce, usually enjoyed at the beach during the summer months.

Where to eat it: If you’re craving a taste of the sea while you’re in the center of the city, be sure to stop by Osteria Der Belli. This Sardinian trattoria, located right near the tram line in Trastevere, serves some of Rome’s freshest seafood and excellent pastas. A plate of spaghetti alle vongole accompanied by a glass of crisp white wine and your holiday is activated, no doubt about it. 

8. Ragù at Dal Toscano

What’s the deal? Ragù has many variations throughout Italy. A meat sauce that can feature pork, beef, duck and even horse, it may be served with or without tomatoes depending on the region. One of the most popular versions of ragù hails from Tuscany: Pappardelle al Cinghiale. A tomato base with slow-cooked wild boar, it’s a delicious and satisfying comfort food served with thick pappardelle ribbons (a slightly larger cousin of tagliatelle and fettucine).

Where to eat it: A venerated restaurant established in 1938, Dal Toscano serves excellent Tuscan recipes just steps from the Vatican Museums. From Bistecca alla Fiorentina to Pappardelle al Cinghiale, here you can enjoy the flavors of Tuscany in the heart of Rome surrounded by decades of history. If you fancy something lighter, you’ll also find a white ragù here, made with Cinta Senese pork. 

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9. Stuffed pasta at Colline Emiliane

What’s the deal? Rome’s traditional pastas, like those across southern Italy, mainly use grano duro wheat to create simple shapes tossed with rich sauces. But in northern Italy, stuffed pastas made with egg dough abound. Ravioli and tortellini are some of the most famous stuffed pastas originating from the Emiglia-Romagna region and you can taste these in Rome – if you know where to look.

Where to eat it: Colline Emiliane, a family-owned restaurant near Piazza Barberini, emerged during Rome’s dolce vita and has been serving excellent Emilian cuisine to hungry visitors ever since. Whether you opt for ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta or tortelli stuffed with pumpkin, you quite literally can’t go wrong here. If it’s stuffed, it’s delicious. 

10. Orecchiete at I Massari

What’s the deal? Roman pastas may favour cheese and meats but head south to Puglia and you’ll find a delicious variant that makes use of foraged wild greens. Orecchiette (little ears) is a classic handmade pasta shape in the south which is often paired with cime di rapa (broccoli rabe). The broccoli is sauteed with garlic, extra virgin olive oil and pepperoncino to give this dish a healthy, earthy flavor – top it with grated cheese or with breadcrumbs, a local tradition.

Where to eat it: In Rome, you’ll find Pugliese classics, including orecchiette, at I Massari. This quaint little restaurant in the residential Prati district will transport you straight to southern Italy with a sun-filled space, local ceramics and seriously fresh flavours.

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