Museo delle Mura

Rome’s ancient walls run an 18-km (12-mile) circuit around the city. Built by Aurelian in the third century, a desperate sign of the city’s imminent decline, they were subsequently reinforced and modified. They remained the fortifications defending the papal city until they were breached at Porta Pia in 1870 (see p147), 16 centuries after their construction. This small and free museum is housed in the ancient Porta San Sebastiano. There is a small collection of artefacts associated with Roman walls and roads, including a couple of nice models. But the main attraction is undoubtedly the fine view from the ramparts of the gate, looking out across the verdant Parco dell’Appia Antica towards the Alban Hills in the distance. There is also a walkway that leads along a section of the wall, complete with arrow slits to peer out at advancing invaders.