The Tent (at the End of the Universe)
London has many restaurants you nip in for a quick bite or ones you can dawdle in over dessert, but there are all too few eateries that confidently grab you by the shirt collar and say: 'This is a date night restaurant. This, my friend, is a sexy restaurant.' Well, put your best freakum dress on, because The Tent (at the End of the Universe) is that restaurant.
Buzzy ex-Noma chef John Javier initially opened this Middle Eastern small plates joint in Fitzrovia as a no-fee, members-only club before throwing the doors open to all and sundry. So what can us plebs expect? Through the unmarked doors, you enter a small, dimly-lit space reminiscent of a Bedouin tent, complete with low seating, tiny constellation-like ceiling lights and some very dramatic draping. So: This is the tent, but what about the end of the universe bit? Well, it’s very dark in there, which would fit with the apocalypse theme, if the end of the world was soundtracked by an incongruously loud Brazilian bossa nova band. Thankfully, the food is good enough to drown out the noise – the warm, pillowy flatbread comes dusted with a sprinkle of zaatar, to be dunked in beetroot borani with a creamy kick of goats curd and a deliciously moreish hummus drenched in a spicy chilli oil. The lamb shish nails the smokiness of an ocakbasi grill but comes in at a disappointing sliver of a portion; the mushroom shish fares better with fat, juicy cuts grilled in umami-ish marinade.
Then come the stars of the show: a wild tiger pra