Il Borro
How do you feel about maximalism? If the answer is that you are bad, incredibly bougie, like truffle pasta, enjoy eating your meals in pristine candlelit rooms, and love visiting marble toilets that are bigger than your London bedroom, then you’ve come to the right place.
Il Borro, on Berkley Street, has taken over what was once the site of Nobu. Il Borro means ‘the gorge’ in Italian and is also a real place in Tuscany: a medieval hamlet at the source of the Arno River which (for the history heads) has been inhabited for more than a thousand years by the Etruscans, the Medici family and Alessandro dal Borro, Field Marshal of the Holy Roman Empire, known as the ‘Terror of the Turks’.
The food and drink is all sourced from this part of Tuscany, which is known for both its deep gorges – or borri – and the produce that it spawns: wine, chestnuts, durum wheat, wild boar. Today, the 750-hectare organic Il Borro estate is owned by the Ferragmo family and the Mayfair restaurant is a minimal cream-hued outpost for their farm-to-table vision. Hearty Italian cooking but make it glamorous, this is exactly what you’d expect from the West End: women with immaculate blow dries, first dates and people who appear to be having business dinners fill the restaurant.
Hearty Italian cooking but make it glamorous
Like nearby Murano (Angela Harnett) this is modern Italian dining. To begin, butter-like carpaccio di manzo (raw, thinly sliced beef tenderloin) arrives with rocket leaves, Parmesan a