Thuy Hoang

Over the years London has experienced generational waves of migrants from Vietnam, many setting up successful food businesses, and transforming the city’s Vietnamese restaurant scene into something vibrant, hugely varied, and second to none in Europe. In the 1970s and 1980s, there were the political refugees who fled the country’s new regime after the end of the Vietnam War in 1975 (often known as ‘boat people’), before economic migrants in the 1990s, and students in the 2000s, some staying on to work in the food industry. Vietnamese food in London spans staunchly authentic fare, formal fine dining and cafe-style outlets, bars and bánh mì bakeries. As a British Vietnamese working in the food industry, I am often asked which Vietnamese restaurants in London are best. These are 20 I consider outstanding. All serve landmark Vietnamese dishes, such as summer rolls, bánh xèo or phở, but in other ways are markedly different. But taken together they are emblematic of the passion of the entrepreneurial families whose stories have forever enriched London’s restaurant landscape.  Thuy Hoang is a British Vietnamese chef and food writer, and was Quarter Finalist on BBC1’s MasterChef. She is passionate about the cuisine of her cultural heritage and its significance for the Vietnamese diaspora in the UK. RECOMMENDED: The best Thai restaurants in London. 

Andy Lê, Vincent Nguyễn and Chef Thắng Trần’s Islington restaurant, Dzô (meaning ‘cheers’) is carving new, innovative ground. Outstanding dishes include a fantastic skillet bánh mì (bánh mì chảo); a deconstructed, high-end bánh mì with tender, seasoned steak, homemade pâté, and fried egg served sizzling in a skillet. The beautifully presented crispy whole seabass with chilli (cá seabass chiên sốt cây) is outstanding. The fish is sourced from nearby Chapel Market and it’s served with a sweet and sour sauce, and has a lovely hit of chilli. Dzô’s spicy Huế beef and pork noodle soup (bún bò Huế), with a satisfyingly meaty broth infused with chilli, lemongrass and shrimp paste, is also the perfect comfort dish. Guests can also book into The Old Quarter, named after a neighbourhood in Hanoi. This is an attractively decorated room downstairs with colourful lanterns, where food and cocktails can be consumed whilst listening to budding karaoke legends.

Come for enticing street food that cleverly fuses Vietnamese and Chinese cookery. Stand-out dishes include the moreish Hanoi-style steamed rice rolls (bánh cuốn), Lạng Sơn roast duck, an bagbagis with tofu (bún đậu lòng mắm tôm). Chefs construct the delicate, steamed rice rolls from paper thin sheets of steamed rice batter filled with savoury minced pork, wood ear mushrooms and shallots. The rolls are paired with Vietnamese cinnamon sausage, which has both a nice chew and hint of spice. The bagbagis is a crunchy, deep-fried pork intestine dish that comes with crispy tofu chunks, vermicelli noodles, and a piquant shrimp paste.

With Thủy Mai and her husband in the kitchen, and their two oldest children frequently working front of house, Sông Hồng feels like you’ve been invited over for a meal by a Vietnamese family. Every dish they serve is influenced by the rich culinary traditions of the Red River (Sông Hồng) region of Vietnam. This is where the family originates, and the recipes have been handed down through generations. Sông Hồng’s list of exceptional dishes include an unusual yet exquisite dish of grilled squid with mustard sauce (mực nướng mù tạt); a delicate, sweet, fragrant curried goat with galangal (dê xào lăn); and a fried fish vermicelli noodle soup (bún chả cá) from Haiphong, which is served with shredded banana blossom, beansprouts, coriander, lime and chilli. 

Ngon means ‘tasty’, and you won’t hear us arguing with that. The restaurant’s recipes come from owner Hùng Nguyễn’s grandparents, ‘boat people’ who settled in the UK. Hùng’s grandmother is a vegetarian, but for every non-vegetarian dish, there is a vegan alternative listed. Seasonality is integral to head chef Phai Luong’s approach, so do check the specials board, Dishes that deserve a mention include the enticing crispy squid coated in salted egg; and the tasty ‘lucky mushroom’, which is king oyster mushroom sautéed in garlic, onions, peppers and rich soy sauce until beautifully tender. 

Must-try dishes include the extraordinarily moreish sticky and sweet crispy chicken wings in a caramelised fish sauce (cánh gà chiên mắm), and the steamed rice rolls, which are filled with sautéed minced pork, wood ear mushrooms and shallots. These are served with Vietnamese sausage and a fish dipping sauce. For an alternative to phở, try the satisfyingly tangy fish noodle soup (bún cá), which comes with fish patties, tomato and dill. 

Power businesswoman, Christine Trần’s steely determination led her to perfect the art of the famed Vietnamese bánh mì, also known as the national street food of Vietnam. You can watch Christine and her staff at the Bánh bakery make these artisan breads by hand and with great authority. The ‘classic’ is pure porky heaven, with juicy char siu, ham hock, pork belly roll, pork patty, and – if that's not enough – it’s garnished with pork floss. The ‘Buddha’ with its succulent, homemade plant-based pork makes for one of the best vegetarian meat substitutes we’ve ever encountered. Bánh Bakery’s welcoming, young staff toast each baguette to your liking before generously stuffing it with your chosen filling as well as pâté, mayonnaise, coriander, pickled carrot, and chilli.

Phở Thúy Tây’s chef patron Thúy Nguyễn’s displeasure with the authenticity of Vietnamese food in the UK led her to open her restaurant in 2014. Originally from Hanoi, her idea has evolved into a casual café serving authentic northern Vietnamese food. Along with dishes for the adventurous and open-minded, the restaurant serves a good selection of more well-known eats. Try the deliciously crispy cubes of deep-fried tofu in salted egg yolk, or the beautiful, tangy vermicelli soup of crab, pungent shrimp paste and tomato, paired with a snail patty (known as bún riêu cua chả óc) - a rare sight on Vietnamese restaurant menus.

A family-run enterprise, Huong Vi Viet is a love letter to Anhgel Lê's brother-in-law, who founded the restaurant in 2023, and her mother, whose recipes are the inspiration for those on the menu. Siblings, nieces, and nephews are all also involved in serving up more than fifty expertly prepared dishes. A rare menu find in London are crispy sweet potato pancakes (bánh tôm Hà Nội) topped with succulent king prawns. There is also an impressive deep-fried whole seabass with salt and pepper, skilfully served off the bone and boasting a perfect blend of spices (cá seabass rang muối ớt). A particularly enjoyable dish is ‘Mama’s chicken’ (gà nướng của Mẹ), grilled chicken with a great depth of flavour due to its rich marinade.