Dai Chi
Kushiage is Japanese pub food – deep fried nibbles on a stick. Here at Dai Chi, we’re told, they ‘take simple pub food, and elevate it’. It made me smile to think that 6,000 miles away a waiter in Tokyo might be serving up an ‘elevated’ version of cheese-and-onion crisps or Scampi Fries to bemused diners. It’s clear the staff are passionate about this new endeavour from the team behind Angelina in Dalston, a much beloved Japanese-Italian fusion eatery.
Dai Chi’s set menu continues in the same vein, combining the crown jewels of both cuisines to create something genuinely unique. The creamy burrata was dotted with bright orange salmon roe nestled on bitter leaves, soft mouthfuls of hamachi were sprinkled with sweet soy and truffles flown in from Italy. This is where the menu shines: fusion dishes that prove a small mouthful can be more than the sum of its parts.
It might sound a bit obvious, but later on the menu leans quite heavily on the deep-fried skewers with two of the six courses being entirely fried (three if you’re pescatarian). Meat-eaters will enjoy the slight reprieve from breadcrumbs when presented with the braised pork, which really did melt in the mouth. But even this is topped with a ‘frickle’ – that’s a deep-fried pickle to you and me. The final savoury dish was a welcome, simple bowl of rice topped with a raw egg yolk and seasoned with something called umo and kombu hitofuri – a sprinkle of which managed to hit sweet, salty and umami all in one.
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